I first made these in 2017 for my husband, and despite trying other brands of pants these are still his preferred fit.
I've made 6 or so pairs of these over the years in a size 28, and have just finished production line sewing of another 4 pairs, using fabric from stash - those pieces that aren't big enough for much else.
Trickiest part is attaching the elastic to the waistband, you need an extra pair of hands at this point!
Benefits of making them oneself is that when the elastic is a bit tired it can be replaced however like all pants they do eventually wear out.
Made for my rugby playing daughter for her prom outfit, there was not even a consideration that a dress was an option.
I made a toile to get the fit right and understand the pattern with it's pleats etc.
I made a XS shortened the top by 1" and tapered the leg as they were too roomy for her liking.
There is an instruction to gather the sleevehead but it only needed to be done by a small amount so I think I could have skipped that step.
Fabric used is a Robert Kaufman Ventura Twill.
She wore it for prom and then for an end of season awards night - not sure if it will get worn again but contemplating dying it for variation.
I would suggest this intermediate/advanced level sewing
I spent a fair amount of time reading others people’s reviews and modifications of this patterns before starting on this.
Laying the pattern piece for the exterior pocket on my typewriter block I was delighted to discover that it was the perfect size for it.
I opted for recycling a pair of jeans from the charity shop for the main panels and gusset as I wanted something hard wearing and that would contrast well with the typewriter.
I was struggling slightly with the amount of denim I had to work with (approximately one and half legs!) and creatively cut up one of the seam lines and used the uncut seam as the middle of the back piece.
The changes I made were to add an internal zip pocket on one side rather than the elasticated pockets.
I added piping to the top of the external pocket and all around the gusset, it adds a great pop of colour to the dark denim. I used the same orange on the back as I used in the typewriter block. On the front I used a packet of vintage bias binding that went well with the typewriter paper
I'd seen many stunning versions of this bag and decided to give it a go. I wanted a small 'hands free' bag that would be suitable for phone, keys and purse.
I made this using off cuts/scraps of dry waxed cotton that is of a good weight, meaning that the bag would be water resistant.
I've made numerous bags from Noodlehead patterns and was confident that this would be as clear and easy to follow as all the others. I wasn't wrong and it was my assumptions about creating the folds/pleats in the front panel that caused problems, slower reading of the instructions resolved that!
I used leather scraps for the closure and rivets which give it a more professional polished look.
The bag has been well used over the last 18 months and I would recommend this pattern.
I made a toile using some mini-waffle fabric bought from Higgs & Higgs at Alexandra Palace. Really needed a long cardigan type garment to wrap around myself under a coat. The pattern is really well designed with some interesting detail. I made some bias binding from an Alice Caroline Liberty remnant & was careful to bind the seams & facings as instructed. I am not complaining; although the result was oversized it has served me well as a dressing gown! The next version will e a size smaller, shorter & in a more interesting colour. This time I will get finish the front band properly! I did not make the belt preferring to wear it loose. My recommendations are to get the size right & use a fabric that will drape well & complement whatever you choose to wear underneath.
There are two zip-front dress patterns dominating this season and I personally prefer the McCalls pattern because it has a darted, less-boxy bodice than the Fabric Godmother Aspen which is much squarer (definitely more Merchant & Mills in shape)
The next difference is the gathered skirt which is shaped so it has a lovely flare to the hem. There are quarter seams in the front which is where the pockets are inserted (you could easily leave them out though) The skirt of the longer version is verrry long for a 5’5” woman like me so I shortened it by about 10cms for my second one.
There are two sleeve options, short with a cuff and long with opening cuffs-both have a gathered sleeve head. I made one dress in lightweight chambray with full length sleeves and the other in a linen/viscose mix with short sleeves but no cuff.
The exposed zip insertion is a little fiddly but that’s because there is a facing on the inside which does give it a lovely clean finish, the FG dress isn’t faced inside the zip.
The overall fit is generous so you might decide to go down a size if you compare your body measurements with the finished garment measurements. The Peter Pan collar is a sweet detail which finishes the neck neatly.
Overall, a really nice pattern which doesn’t swamp you because of the shaping of the bodice and skirt. It would look great in a variety of fabrics including denim, corduroy, cotton poplin or Broderie Anglaise. I like it a lot and I’ll definitely be making a third. I would say it’s suitable for intermediate sewers and improvers.
I wanted it to be quite fitted and a little less mumsy, and to tuck in the spaghetti western Henrietta skirt. I tried out an fba for D cup. Normally I would use a 14/16 but on upper bust measurement went to a 12 and found a youtube video doing an fba on this style, with its princess seam dart in place already. Yay! it worked. A little pointy on the bust, even though using a soft, 80gsm Indian block print, but amazing to have something that fits! I like the ruffle neck - normally I prefer minimal - and the glimpse of cleavage for anyone allowed to get close enough. Sleeves a bit long, though my arms aren't short. The thing I bridle against with style arc patterns is the reliance on serging. I prefer to keep raw edges hidden (and don't have a serger). Cuff scenario a bit disappointing. I might add an equivalent ruffle there. I kind of made it to wear under a jacket anyway. Wanted to upload a video but was only allowing stills.
I sewed this in a burgundy linen (Beyond Nine deadstock from The Craft House). I put pleats in the sides instead of gathering. I sized down. Added belt loops and a slider buckle belt. Very easy to sew, unusual. I miss pockets, though, but no way I can see to add them in. Was going to add a video but it's not allowing it.
The end result is a pair of trousers I like, though in hindsight the style isn’t so different from the tapered Pietra which has a much better written set of instructions. The Morella is lacking cutting layouts, any mention of interfacing (required at top of pockets & front), any distinction between right & wrong side of fabric in the line drawings, and clear instructions or video tutorials for the pockets, unless I’ve missed something. I lost patience trying to work out how you’re intended to attach the front to the back when the pockets are still right sides together, so I turned them right side out & carried on in spite of the instructions which worked out fine.
This easy little pattern, can be made from leftover scraps. Matching handbag anyone? I've made two so far, one with a ruffle and embroidered monogram and one using baby corduroy and the selvedge as a mini ruffle. I highly recommend this bag pattern for all sewists from beginners to advanced makers. Make one for all seasons and for gifts at Xmas . . .
Really love the service from the fold line, this was my 1st time using them and i will definitely use them again!!!
Prompt delivery great pattern paper
If you're looking for a great hoodie pattern-- Look no further! Detailed instructions with a lot of style lines that elevate this pattern. I am 5' 4 1/2" and I opted for the taller pattern and I like the fit with no adjustments. I used a very thick 11.5 oz 100 percent cotton sweatshirting with very little stretch. It's very cozy and it's going to a winter staple. Next time I won't try to do the twill tape finish on the hood because my fabric was too thick.
Made this up in a wool suiting over Christmas last year. I'm glad I made a toile as the first size I cut was too small. The instructions were clear, apart from the steps about attaching the skirt and lining hems together. I will definitely be making this pattern again!
Loved making this, looks beautiful on.
I’m 5ft and made the short skirt version l. Bear in mind the pattern uses a lot of fabric.
I made mistakes in the pattern but purely my fault, rectified it. It’s so worth it.
I bought this pattern 3 or 4 years ago and made both versions at the time. Decided to get it out after seeing it trending again as I had some ponte from Fabworks i wasn't sure what to do with.
Run up version 2 quickly in an hour and a half, popped it straight on to go out for the day!
I made these out of an old bedsheet as my first project. I loved how it had pictures at each step to make the instructions nice and clear. The pants fit well based on my measurements. This was honestly such a good pattern to learn with plus I have the cutest PJ pants ever now! They are creased and wrinkly because of course I wore them to bed straight after finishing them and before taking a photo!!! Hahaha
I finally decided that I needed one of these dresses after seeing lots of lovely versions on Instagram!
I enjoyed sewing the dress and found the instructions easy to follow. You need to be precise when sewing the collar and zip, but other than that it's a fairly straightforward pattern.
I sized down and took a bit of extra width out of the side seams to get the fit I wanted. I also lengthened the bodice by 1.5", which is fairly standard for me.
The longer skirt (views B and C) is VERY long. I'm about 5'9" and it came out ankle length on me. I ended up cutting off 7" and using a 2" hem instead of the 5/8" hem called for in the instructions. I'd definitely recommend checking what skirt length you want before cutting to save yourself some fabric.
The fabric that I used is a cotton twill, which is a really nice weight for this pattern.
There's a review with more details and photos on my blog here: https://nightingaleanddolittle.blogspot.com/2025/10/mccalls-8553-zip-front-dress.html
My go-to service for printing patterns. Can't fault them.
I had to look up 'horse girl' and 'pannier skirt' and learned something about both.
The skirt is very popular and there are lots on Instagram. This was my toile, made with double gauze from my stash. It was hard to believe that I was an XS so went up a bit. There is a lot of ease in this pattern; it only has to go over the waist then it can be as gathered as you wish - or not.
There was enough width for me not to worry about making French seams even though the allowance is only half an inch. I bound and top stitched the side panel join.
Issues: I had the same as the other reviewer in that the front/back panels were too long but that could be how I attached the gathered panels to the sides. There is no grain line marked on A, the front and back panel but this is a symmetric piece so you can get there by folding it longways. There is also no marking on this piece showing where to place the cross seams on the side panels. You just have to make sure they match.
It's a very quick sew as the waistband is simply folded over before the elastic is added so there are only three pieces and a bit of elastic.
I could have added a bit of length. I'm 5'8" but like a long skirt.
Size 12, graded to 14 at the waist in a medium denim from my stash. I found a good tutorial for a high round back adjustment to design with raglan sleeves.
There is also a tutorial for the placket on the Emporia website. It ends with the sewer saying to ignore a bit which is sticking out but that did enable me to make a better job!
I bound the edges inside because I don't over lock. And copied the colourful details from the sample.
It's a lovely design. Very smart. The four is really due to my difficulty in following what I thought were some quite detailed instructions requiring more knowledge of tailoring than I have: bagging out lining, shoulder pads and welt pockets with flaps.
The wool fabric frayed like anything so using that made it difficult too. I didn't make the pockets because putting anything in them would ruin the line. Just the flaps are there! Haven't done the button hole either for the same reason.
There is a video sewalong in French which is not surprising since that's where the designer is from but it is a bit perfunctory. The English subtitles obscure the pictures.
I keep saying this: toile it! I already have some fabric to try out my next jacket ....
perfect user experience, the PDF comes with layers the help the sewing process
This is a really nice top pattern. It's a simple and very wearable shape, but the yoke adds a bit of extra interest – particularly if you use gingham/plaid or stripes and play with the print direction.
The instructions have a good level of detail and I found them very easy to follow. They're also illustrated with clear diagrams. I really enjoyed sewing my Clemente top, and didn't have any problems.
I used the size recommended for my measurements, and I like the fit. It's relaxed as intended, but not too baggy. The only alteration I made was to lengthen the top by an inch, which is a standard adjustment for me.
I used a yarn-dyed cotton gingham fabric, which I think worked really well for this pattern.
There's a post on my blog with more photos and details here: https://nightingaleanddolittle.blogspot.com/2025/10/itch-to-stitch-clemente-top.html
