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Kylie and The Machine Kylie & The Machine 2026 Sweary Sewist Advent CalendarRegular price £35.00 GBPSale price £35.00 GBP Regular price
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Pauline Alice Pauline Alice Tirig Dress and TopRegular price £10.50 GBPSale price £10.50 GBP Regular price
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THE EDIT: NEW SEWING PATTERN RELEASES - 11 OCTOBER
This week, Atelier Jupe has a stunning new blouse you won't want to miss. We have a coat pattern that will build your sewing skills, as well as deliver an ultra-elegant fit. Plus, we have a unisex pyjama set that is asking to be sewn twice to match.
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SEW THE TRENDS 26: AUTUMN: PART 2
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THE EDIT: NEW SEWING PATTERN RELEASES - 4 OCTOBER
I have an excellent selection of patterns to share this week. From a cute little layering top that requires very little fabric to a skirt that sits on the right side of simple, there are some gems to add to your sewing wish list.
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from 5095 reviewsThis is a fabulous pattern for workwear/hiking. I loved the gusset and knee darts which made them really comfortable to wear. There are lots of useful design details with the pocket options, the knee facings and facings on the bottom back leg. I made a wearable toile in a stretch cotton twill, and a second pair in cotton drill no stretch. I did find they come up loose fit. To achieve a closer fit as per the pattern picture I will try sizing down. I also plan to make these as jeans. I didn't find any issues with pattern drafting.
Loved making this....really crystal clear instructions with video tutorials to match ! Love the attention to detail, it gives a really nice clean finish. I can't wait to make more!
This is a great pattern; very straightforward, just two fronts, back cut on the fold, dropped sleeves with no gathers, side seams, a long band, a sash and carriers with sleeve and bottom hems. It's a clear set of instructions. I did my standard forward round back adjustment which made a snug fit on the neck. It's designed for 5ft 6ins. I added an inch to the length but could still have done with a bit more. I could have added at least an inch to the sleeves. Maybe I haven't shrunk as much as I was thinking.
To decrease weight and bulk, I added the patch pockets before joining the fronts to the other pieces. I suppose that means you lose the option of "best placing" the pockets for yourself but where they were on the pattern was fine for me.
I used a single kantha bedspread bought in India. I had to piece the sash and there was very little left over.
I’ve done one zip before in a class and have never done piping. This pattern was simple and pretty quick to make. It turned out better than I expected and holds so much material so is super practical.
- I used the printing service that The Fold Line offer and it was excellent and really fast delivery
- Rather than use wadding and baste it in place, I used the pattern to cut out a second pouffe that I made from an old fleece blanket (added a zip to that one too but didn’t add piping). Then put the fleece blanket pouffe inside the outer pouffe and stuffed through both zips. Zipped up the inner pouffe and then the outer.
- I didn’t make my piping I already hade some pre-made
- My zip was longer than the pattern said but I wanted to use all the things I already had rather than buying new, the longer zip worked fine.
- The pattern doesn’t explain how to join the piping ends but I found this on loads of YouTube videos
Enjoy
Great pattern.
I made this in a funky Fabric Godmother dead stock heavyish jersey a few years ago. It was one of the first things I made in stretch fabrics. I used a regular Pfaff. I've never bothered with an overlocker. I took my machine to a holiday rental in the Peak District and had this cut out & made in a few hours
It's so quick & easy.
I must make another one...I'm terrible at re-using my patterns, I'm always onto the next sew!
I made this a few years ago but have noted the funnel neck trend for A/W 26-27 so I'll be cracking this pattern out again.
This one is sewn in a gorgeous blue fine wool suiting given to me by a friend of my mother's whose own mother worked in a woollen mill in the North of England. It has 'Made in England, Fine Wool' woven in on the selvedge. It's the best fabric, soft, draping but holds it's shape. It's warm and great for this trans seasonal weather.
I lined mine in the end with a liberty lawn in blue William Morris print. I love a funky lining in a classic piece. Without the lining there are raw edges and because of the quality of my wool, it was hard to get over my head and the fabric stuck. It slips over now easily. I also bound the pocket edges as I didn't like the raw finish.
I've not tried the trousers yet but they look to be a simple but generous elastic back waist, flat front.
I recommend the pattern but don't expect hand holding on the instructions. As with many of the Big 4 they're fairly brief.
I've had so many compliments when wearing this. It's unusual yet quite classic. I like the nod to 1960s yet it hold it's contemporary place.
I love this pattern.
I veered away from the ubiquitous shirred dresses that have dominated the high st and sewing pattern trends, because being an adult woman I didn't want to dress up like a small girl!
However when this pattern came out I thought it might solve the bathroom issues we all face with a jumpsuit. ( It does a bit....as it's pull down with no zips involved that makes things a little easier!)
The shirring was fun especially watching it shrink in the steam. The instructions are very clear .
I get compliments when I wear it and it's comfy and very flattering.
I love the back neck tie
I made this in a gorgeous Merchant and Mills chambray. Excellent fabric always helps! It's got fabulous draped and recovery.
The pattern has generous pockets adding to its comfort and practicality.
I might make another as it would be a great evening or event outfit. The lovely crossover top begs for a gorgeous statement necklace.
I think I may have added a little to the back and front waist rise and lengthened the hems as I'm long in the body and above average height. Otherwise the pattern was a great fit.
I highly recommend this pattern.
You know when a small change happens and it just shifts something in your life. Not to be overly dramatic but that's what the BF Bestie bag has done for me. I've never been a handbag girlie and have always struggled to find bags that work for me.
Enter the Bestie.
I made 3 matching in each of the different sizes, all in this aubergine twill (Ray stitch) each lined in blancmange pink cotton lawn.
I use the smallest version shown here probably every single day. It carries phone, purse, lipstick, keys with no fuss and you can reach them easily and have hands free for your busy life.
I've had no end of compliments, comments .' oh that's so nice, where did you get it.. '
I made this more fancy one in Harris Tweed because well, why not? If you don't want to splash out hundreds of pounds on Harris Tweed buy .4m and squeeze a bag out of it. This one's lined in gold silk taffeta.
The pattern is so clever and the zips always come out super neat and tidy. It's a dream of a clever concept and the instructions hold your hand.
I love that you can experiment with linings, straps etc
Change your life- make a Bestie!
This is far and away my favourite trouser pattern ever. I can't recommend Bella Loves highly enough. Her patterns are so well drafted and the instructions are superb. I've also made the Traveller coat.
I've made 3 pairs of these now, one in a fine grey wool (Ditto, Brighton) one in a cream Viyella wool ( Fabric Fair, Brighton) and one in a brown coating with turquoise weave from a charity shop near Dunfermline.
All 3 are different due to the fabric drape and quality but the fit is amazing.
They're a real classic trouser so you have to adjust to the feel but she combines the roominess and drape with a great fit over hips & bum so you're not swamped. The pockets are generous and they are so comfortable.
I added an inch or so to the bottom hem as I'm above average height.
I took time to bias bind all my pocket edgings, waistband edging and crotch seam so there's no raw edges and finished the leg seams with zigzag as I don't pisses an overlooked and doubt I'd ever bother with one. I might try a flat felled seam in future just for the finish.
I'm looking forward to making another pair this winter!
As with all Helen's closet patterns this does what it says on the tin.
Super quick, easy basic sew. Excellent instructions and sizing info.
Variations you can mix & match. I copped this version to wear with higher waisted skirts & trousers.
I'll be coming back to make more!
When this pattern came out I was drawn to its interesting construction and I do love a directional stripe.
I found this fabulous striped cotton in Fabric Godmother and it spoke to me of 1920s Riviera, deckchairs and glamour! It was also the moment to try this pattern.
It was a super quick sew with this really innovative construction. I didn't bother with a toile as the ties make it adjustable.
I love how it turned out. I wore it to the Literary Festival at Charleston Farmhouse to lean into all that 20s glamour !
It's flattering and relatively comfortable. I would say the skirt slit is a little high and in a woven there's not much give in the skirt so I had to be careful sitting not to reveal too much leg.
I'd like to try the top. It's a super versatile pattern and I'd highly recommend.
I'm going to see the Ossie Clark exhibition at Fashion Textile Museum this week and wanted to mark the occasion by making a dress with the right vibes. This is a departure from my usual makes. I focus available sewing time on making very wearable family classic makes in the best fabric I can afford.
This was a decadent dress for an occasion!
I found 4m of this fabulous, lovely soft, great quality cotton lawn paisley on Vinted for a bargain price. I decided I wanted the contrast yoke so I wasn't drowned in paisley and visited Liberty London to find this complementary plain cotton tana lawn in a sky blue. It matched do well and I'm a cool colour palette so it was ideal to tone down the paisley party going on!
This pattern is excellent, as you'd expect from Vogue. I didn't make a toile (I know!) but risked it knowing previous Vogue patterns have been spot on.
I wore it out to test the impact and got lots of compliments. It's super comfortable and flattering. I do love a nice length. I added an inch to the hem as I'm 5'7" and I had the luxury with my 4m of fabric.
I took the deep neckline slash up a little for modesty!
There are some great photos of other test garments on the Minerva website where you can see the incredible draper of this pattern when it's made in crepe or silk fabrics. I'd love to make another in silk - what an investment!
In all it's a winner if you want a statement dress!
This top deserves it's popularity in the sewing patterns hall of fame. I made it in a dead stock cotton weave (apparently ex-Loewe fashion house) and opted for full facings and the cropped length. It falls perfectly to meet a high-ish rise trouser or skirt. The trousers here are Megan Nielsen Flint (and although I love the final result I had fitting nightmares making them but that's for another review!) The high end finish of the Ashton top makes for a smart item. I've had many compliments already. I french seamed everything too so no raw edges and it's a joy to wear something so polished. I used ready made bias tape to neaten the back facing edges but made my own from self fabric for the front and when I make this again (which I will!) I'll use only self made bias as it added a lovely touch. In all it's a super comfortable, flattering every day top that can be elevated depending on the fabric and how it's styled. If you use contrast facing fabric you can squeeze this top out of very little fabric. I was worried the bust darts might need adjusting according to my own block but in fact they're perfectly placed for me. I've not used a HC pattern before and her instructions are fantastic.
The coat is a great trench with lovely classic details. I would describe as relatively fitted across shoulders and A-line from the waist. I would size up to be able wear a jumper underneath, maybe grading to my actual size from waist downwards – see details below. It’s an in-depth project, although it’s a series of lots of steps which you can do in stages.
Sizing & Fit
I didn’t make a toile but I A) read every review I could find B) purchased Guthrie & Ghanie “Lauren’s hints and tips” video C) made up the lining to check fit and D) cut the sleeves once I had made up the main body and could gauge the length needed.
I found sizing runs true, BUT, if you want to wear this with a jumper or something thicker, I recommend sizing up in the shoulders and bust. Bear in mind, if you pick the size based on your full bust – the bigger your differential between full and upper bust, the more room you will have in your shoulders.
I selected the size based on my bust measurements and can comfortably wear this with a long sleeve T-shirt. I can also get my padded gilt on too, but I couldn’t wear it with a thick jumper. I’m a dressmaker’s B/C cup.
One review which said they’d graded down 2 sizes. I can only think this was from the waist, and that they were not pear shaped, because in my experience even 1 size down would not fit across the shoulders and bust. I would describe the arms as “slim fit”. I don’t have big arms but needed to reduce the seam allowance as much as possible to improve ease. I found the sleeve length out of the packet about just right, whereas I usually need to lengthen sleeves by 1-2 inches, i.e. the sleeve length comes up relatively long to other patterns.
The trench is drafted for 5 ft. 8, and I added an inch in the lower half of the garment to match my own height. This coat is going to keep me dry top to bottom in a shower.
Pattern pieces and instructions
There are many positives about this pattern but, here are a few things to bear in mind:
(1) I normally trace patterns but not with this one given the number of pieces. I had bought the paper version but contacted Named with proof of purchase and they sent me over the PDF files
(2) The pattern doesn’t include pieces for interfacing around the necklines and hems of the main parts of the pattern. There are about 10 or 11 pieces of interfacing that you have to draft yourself. It’s not difficult, but it you plan on making more than one version of the coat I recommend drafting those pieces on paper. Also, because the hem interface pieces help guide the finish, I think accuracy is important
(3) Although the pattern instructions are good I found in some places for me they lacked detail. E.g., when sewing the welt pockets, I thought the diagrams lacked some context of the rest of the garment to enable me to understand which way round I was sewing something. With hindsight the diagrams and descriptions are obvious, but I don’t think I’d have worked this out easily without referring to Lauren’s hints and tips video. Minerva also has a free sew along video on you tube, although I didn’t refer to that
Construction
Some things I found:
(1) The pattern has you overlock raw edges on the lining and the main coat. I didn’t want the imprint of the overlock stitches showing through after pressing on my main fabric. However, I did overlock the lining to improve longevity of my coat because the fabric frayed a lot.
(2) In order to bag out the coat, the pattern has you leave a gap between the facing and the lining. I thought this may be visible when I wear the coat open, so I opted to leave a gap in the side of the lining. Doing it that way also meant I could under stitch around the facing where the facing meets the lining, which I also liked as a finish.
(3) Some reviewers of the Isla coat mentioned it being difficult to sew through many layers when you have the cape and the coat. I didn’t encounter any issues with that, but I do have a sturdy sewing machine
(4) I would say it would be relatively easy to leave off the cape, or just put in the back or front pieces of the cape as storm flaps.
In terms of pattern positives – the welt pockets are very professional. They have a facing so the lining fabric doesn’t show when the coat is worn. The cape is relatively easy to construct and add to the coat. As long as you ensure everything is flat when you add it, it should work out well. I would say it’s important to ensure that when cutting out the back cape on the fold, watch out that you don’t curve up at the fold, so that you retain a smooth edge left to right, without it dipping up in the middle.
I decided to cut out the slight neck scoop which turned out bigger than I would like, however this top today is perfect for layering, I will need to wear something underneath, it is too much neck for me. It was extremely easy to sew, I did it all on my overlocker, then finished with maraflex thread to keep the rib seams flat. Next time I will make the crewe neck and use a much better ribbing. This top has potential and will be a tnt for me.
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