The Shortlist: Coats

The heating isn’t on quite yet but the evenings are getting darker, signalling one thing – it’s time to start thinking about sewing a coat, of course! If you love to sew your own clothes you may be considering sewing outerwear for the first time and be on the hunt for a little inspiration. There are so many ways to go so it can be a little daunting committing to a pattern. Sewing a coat will take time, so you want to be sure you’re picking a coat you will love wearing for years to come.

If you are planning on sewing a coat for the first time, I have some great suggestions for you. The main thing is to have a go. Sewing a coat is just a series of steps like every other project you have completed and you absolutely can sew a coat! So now onto the coat sewing patterns…

If you plan on tackling sewing your own coat for the first time, this little lot fits the bill.

1. Tessuti Fabrics Torino Vest – looks great worn over chunky sweaters and the overlapped and raw edges make for a quick and easy sewing project.
2. Melilot Marte Coat – has an oversized fit, dropped shoulders and hidden pockets in the side seams. It’s unlined so is a good choice for your first coat project.
3. Tessuti Fabrics Berlin Jacket – a collarless, longline style that’s the perfect pick for your first coat. Check out the reviews to see how it turned out for Fold Line makers (spoiler alert… pretty great!).
4. The Avid Seamstress Wimborne Coat – a simple cocoon shape with dropped shoulders that will be easy to sew and wear.

Capes are pretty cool. You will carry yourself in a certain way when wearing one of these.

1. I AM Patterns Harry Cape – is fully lined and is easily slipped on and off using the four buttons on the front button placket. There’s also an adorable mini version for kids and teens.
2. Trend Patterns TPC3 The Cape – probably the chicest of the bunch. The longer length is great for an elegant evening look.
3. Liesl + Co Stroll Cape – fastens with buttons (or snaps) at the sides and the front, so it’s easy to take on and off. You can also make a matching children’s cape using the Forest Path Cape.
4. Fibre Mood Harlem Cape – a poncho-style cape that looks great in quilted fabric. The designer has kept cyclists in mind with a back that’s slightly longer than the front.

Does anyone else like to make sure their coat can accommodate a chunky jumper? It’s a key consideration for me when picking a coat.

1. Tessuti Fabrics Richmond Coat – a modern classic style that is full-length – great if you wear midi-length dresses and skirts. The dramatic, tapered sleeves provide a cosy feel and easy layering over your favourite chunky knit.
2. Merchant & Mills Sanda Coat or Jacket – a fabulous pattern. The oversized shape provides plenty of space for a jumper and that rolled collar is a really chic detail.
3. The Modern Sewing Co. Darcy Coat – is probably my favourite on the list due to its oversized shape for jumpers and that stunning collar with a nod to vintage coats.
4. Trend Patterns TPC28 Oversized Coat – features beautifully shaped, puffed, bracelet-length sleeve with a deep cuff. Perfect if you love wearing blouses, dresses and jumpers with big, puffy sleeves!

Another detail that I can’t resist is a good old hood. Here are my top picks for fellow hood lovers.

1. Tessuti Fabrics London Coat – This oversized and unlined coat should be a fairly straightforward sew as the seams are overlapped and edges and hems left raw, so no finishing is required!
2. Bara Studio Alma Parka is a modern take on the military parka style that features a cosy padded lining.
3. Jennifer Lauren Handmade Willa Wrap Coat Hood Expansion Pack takes the Willa Coat to a very chic place. The dreamy hood has been inspired by the dramatic hood on 40s and 50s coats and ponchos.
4. I AM Patterns Rê Coat is a classic duffle coat loaded with the elements. It will be worth the effort and you will learn loads in the process of making it.

What do you get when you cross and coat with a cardigan? A coatigan that’s what! The comfort of a cardigan with the warmth of a coat… what’s not to like?

1. Megan Nielsen Hove Jacket and Coat – you might think you know the Hovea pattern, but did you know it makes an excellent coatigan? Choose the lined coat with a collar band and belt version.
2. Sew Over It Jessie Coatigan – this is a popular choice with our customers. It’s a quick make, that has no closures but can be wrapped closed and secured with a belt if you prefer.
3. Sew Me Something Bianca Coat – features a dramatic shawl collar that drapes into a waterfall front but still feels like a relaxed coatigan.
4. Style Arc Sigrid Knit Coat – my favourite of the lot, this longline coat has generous patch pockets and is super stylish.

Kate shared the news in Sew the Trends: Autumn that tie-waist coats are all over the high street this season so I have some fab options for recreating the look.

1. Style Arc Ormond Coat – has a gorgeous statement tie-waist belt that ties from the side seams so you won’t lose it!
2. The Assembly Line V-Neck Coat – is a lapel-less coat with minimalist, clean lines and slight A-line fit. It’s really stylish.
3. Vikisews Martina Coat – features a lovely notched collar and closes with four sew-on snaps. This results in a really clean finish.
4. Bara Studio Terry Coat – is a minimalist dream. The simple belted shape looks great in brightly coloured boiled wool to give your winter wardrobe pop.

If you prefer a clean neckline without fussy collars, why not go collarless with one of these chic patterns?

1. Merchant & Mills Strand Coat is a simple unlined coat where the side seams have been brought to the front and feature clever little side pockets.
2. Papercut Patterns Nova Coat – if you only own one coat pattern, this could be it. This pattern is a cult classic in the sewing community with its dramatic cocoon silhouette and angled seaming.
3. The Maker’s Atelier The Atelier Coat – is the epitome of sophisticated, pared-back glamour. It would be a lovely coat for more dressed up or smart occasions.
4. Style Arc Adelaide Woven Jacket – a stylishly chic boxy jacket that will make any outfit cool. I love the optional patch pockets.

I’ve got another hybrid garment for you – the shacket. The shirt jacket looks great in a warmer wool fabric.

1. Vikisews Ingrid Jacket – this modern style looks really cool in a checked wool fabric. It is a perfect addition to a casual winter wardrobe.
2. Style Arc Logan Shacket – a popular pattern that looks great in a cosy boiled wool fabric.
3. Sewing Patterns by Masin Jameela Jacket – works just as well in cosy boiled wool as it does any mid-weight woven fabric. That makes it a versatile pattern to have in your stash.
4. Fibre Mood Rya Shirt and Coat has been a firm favourite with the sewing community. It’s a very cool shacket.

If you lean towards classic styles, you can’t go wrong with a double-breasted design.

1. Sew Over It 1960s Coat – perfect if you like vintage vibes. The sleek 60s shape with a neat pointed collar and the centre back seam should help with fitting.
2. The Maker’s Atelier Classic Coat – does what it says on the tin. A classic single- or double-breasted coat with set-in, two-piece sleeves and welt or patch pockets that is well worth the sewing effort!
3. Style Arc Beatrice Pea Coat – is a classic double-breasted pea coat that has a two-piece collar and all the other delightful details you could hope for from a pea coat.
4. Bella Loves Patterns Traveller Coat – is a great pattern to test out your tailoring skills with. You will learn so much from couture expert, Isabella.

If you walk on the smart side, a tailored design is the way to go.

1. Maison Fauve Tigris Coat – if you fancy sinking your teeth into a coat project this autumn, this is a masterpiece in the making. It features an officer’s collar with a crossover fastening, welt pockets at the bust, patch pockets, and a vent at the back.
2. Liesl + Co Chaval Coat is a fully lined, menswear-style coat that will teach you some nifty new sewing skills without overwhelming you.
3. Itch to Stitch Lagan Coat – has front and back princess seams and cup size options for a great fit. It’s an elegant style is suited for everyday wear as well as for a more formal event.
4. Atelier Jupe Alex Coat – features a large collar and lapels, seams at the front with the pockets worked in (so clever!), and a back vent for a sophisticated finish.

1 thought on “The Shortlist: Coats”

1. Karen Nelson

   October 18, 2023

   A very good and varied selection of coat patterns. I have quite a few of these but have not made them.

   Currently I am making the How To Do Fashion’s No4 London coat /jacket. It’s a great pattern and so far a good sewing process. There are not any “sew-along” videos but instead short “how to” ones highlighting on particular details, like the “sandwich” collar, for example.

   I might give a few of these a look.

   Thanks Foldline

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