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THE EDIT: NEW SEWING PATTERN RELEASES - 27 OCTOBER
There's been a flood of top-tier new arrivals I need to tell you about, all perfect for stretching your sewing skills while adding a staple piece to your handmade wardrobe. With new collections from Named and Liesl + Co., a new issue of Tauko magazine, as well as a much-awaited design from Paper Theory, you won't want to miss this update! -
The Sew Down - October
Check out our roundup of great stuff to watch and listen to while you sew! -
THE EDIT: NEW SEWING PATTERN RELEASES - 20 OCTOBER
If you are on the hunt for a trans-seasonal jacket or autumn layer to sew, this update has you covered. With new patterns from In the Folds, I AM Patterns and Puff and Pencil, we have plenty of options for your consideration!
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from 3177 reviewsI fell in love with the pattern after it was sold out on Foldline so splashed out on having it posted from France. I’ve made this to wear at Christmas. My first time doing a cuff, two part sleeves and invisible zip (and also my first time using a slippery crepe back satin 😬). I found the instructions sometimes a little vague and unclear but also used the video tutorial on Maison Fauve’s YouTube channel (it’s in French, but was really helpful to see how things were done). I’m delighted with how it’s turned out, it’s everything I hoped it would be and I've learned a lot. I plan to wear this at Christmas. I’ve splashed out and ordered some of their Reflet fabric to make myself another.
I liked the look of this pattern so much that I bought it straight from the maker but now glad to see it on The Foldline. I managed to get the last of the beautiful striped linen from Ditto so my skirt is as on the model.
I made the loose pleated version and it all went together well. I noted that I should have finished the top edges of the pleats before sewing them. (The pattern does say to do this.) Also that, if making the loose version, there is no need to baste the whole long edge of the pleats.
The skirt is cut so there is no bulking at the waist and so you get a line of stitches on the outside above each pleat and an edge inside. Another time I might consider the thinnest of thin short linings so as to cover the edges and the pockets.
I shall wear this garment a lot along with the Vetiver top I managed to cut from the left over edges of this fabric.
Makers Atelier are great patterns. Have a look if you don't know them.
The Merchant and Mills September Coat has easily reached "favourite coat of the season" status for me - and the best part is, September can be a hit anytime of year ;)
This was my first time trying a Merchant and Mills pattern after admiring their aesthetic for a long time, and I found a lot to love about this design. The coat has both inseam and patch pockets, and I like that the raglan sleeves are both comfy and straightforward to sew. The pattern's design lines also really let the fabric be the star of the show - I love how it shows off a bold print here, and would be equally lovely with a solid colour (which would really make the pockets pop too!)
The pattern has a lot of ease, so I sized down following advice from sewists who had already made the pattern - my measurements put me between 8/10, and I made a 6. I’m really happy with the fit - there’s still plenty of room for some cozy layers! For mods - I took 3” off the length and skipped the cuffs since the wrong side of this fabric is quite noticeable. I also shortened the sleeves by 3” too. I also ended up cutting the back on the fold – partly to preserve the design of this fabric, but also to make the best of my yardage which was significantly under the recommendation!!
I debated adding a lining, but ended up leaving it off - realistically, I’ll get more wear unlined given autumn/winter is pretty warm where I live. The pattern helpfully includes instructions to both add a lining, as well as finish unlined. To keep things pretty inside though, I bias-bound all of the internal seams which adds for a nice pop of colour when its opened!
Fabric is a leopard print cotton drill - I was inspired by Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy's iconic leopard print coat. I like that it has enough structure to hold the design lines, but doesn't feel heavy when worn, since I had planned for this to be an autumn coat for a warmer climate. I've seen some gorgeous versions on IG in oilskin and wool as well though if you're after something warmer!
Shreya | junolovesthread
Used even less fabric than I did before for this change of season construction. It's a Fabric Godmother light cord pinwale and can you tell that the main pieces are cut crosswise and the gusset and pockets are longways? It means that the gusset runs up one leg and down the other. I don't notice any of that!
For those who don't know, there are pointed pockets, large on the front, smaller on the back. You make some tucks at the knees and ankles, the gusset runs round the inseam and then you join the side seams. Clever!
There is an elasticated waist and that's it. I've seen nothing like these trousers and I love them!
I made these from linen bought in Lithuania. It's quite light but holds the all important shape.
The pattern is straightforward with clear instructions for the flat fell and French seams which obviate the need for any overlocking.
I bound the raw edges of the fly and fly extension, taking care that it finished the right way out. Also finished the ankle hems that way.
I did find, maybe because I also bound the front crotch, before joining it with a conventional seam that there was no need to clip to the seams below the zip assembly. I've added a photo showing that and am sorry to have cut the seams.
Last time, I made a note that, at 4c, on the extension, I should make the seam wide enough to match the width of the crotch seam. I must have done that this time as didn't experience an issue.
The sides are joined with French seams. It is then suggested that you top stitch for the look of a "faux" flat fell seam. To avoid wrinkles, this is better done from the right side.
Fleece, make it in fleece. You can keep your regular size and make it baggy, I went to the largest size and have made it super wintery. Use woven for the interfacing and interface the collar in woven as well. When you make the pocket you line it in woven and then bag it out. You can nix the slit if you choose. I've made it plenty of times now and what I do is use basting thread and get that front and neck facing tacked down, it's one you do in front of the telly and I promise you will get it perfect every time. This is 100% a beginner pattern, don't believe a single soul if they say facings are hard, installing your collar so it's enclosed is so much easier than any other method. What you'll find is people get hung up on facings, basting and zips because they were told it's hard or boring, and will go to incredible lengths to avoid them, and then a few years in when they've discovered ladies like lifting pins and needles on the youtubes they'll baste all the things all the time.
I wanted to make this dress in Autumnal colours. I bought 3 separate metres of a lightweight corduroy hoping that would be enough. It was but only just, I had to join two pieces together. The pattern does call for more but I think you would have more wastage. I joined the fabric using French seams apart from the side seams as there are pockets. The fit is good not too baggy if I make it again I think I would take it in more and add a zip just because I don’t like really loose dresses. I did wear a thin poloneck underneath for adding warmth on a chilly day.
The instructions were good an it is a simple dress to make.
I made this dress to wear to my sister in law's wedding from a gorgeous viscose jacquard satin from Fabric Godmother. as the fabric was so special i made up a wearable toile in some cheaper leopard print viscose i had in my stash. i was amazed at how easy it was to make and how beautifully it came together. the instructions were easy to follow and the end result feels so lovely to wear - elegant yet simple. i made no adjustments to the size 10 and the fit was perfect. it works just as well for a day trip on a summers day with a light shirt/jacket and trainers as it did for a wedding.
My daughter had looked at wedding dresses but there wasn’t anything that came in vaguely in her budget so we decided I’d have a go at making her dress. The various options for sleeve, neck, bodice and skirt made this perfect. In fact I’m going to be using it again for my wedding next year…. 2 for the price of 1. Bargain.
Firstly I should say that I’m not great at following instructions, cutting with precision or using the correct seam allowance. This however was a joy to make, I thoroughly enjoyed the project and love the finished dress. Will definitely be making another and almost certainly a sleeveless pinafore option
The perfect over sized shirt for this season. I made a size XS which tallied with a 33-34” bust. I’m a 34.5” bust. The finished measurement at the bust is 43”, so 9 inches of ease. There's loads more details on my blog but needles to say, the Closet Core instructions are thorough and straight forward.
https://lovelucie.org/2024/10/11/closet-core-jenna-shirt/
I decided to make this for the dressmakers ball. The pattern goes together beautifully and is easy to make adjustments to. The instructions are clear with good photos. The only thing I didn't feel quite happy with was the foam cups, they tended to twist and needed additional securing, which was tricky. May be to do with size and smaller cups may be sufficiently stable just tacked to the lining darts. So much fun!
Bella Loves Patterns Rosie shirt
First of all, the frustration of the previous reviewer who awarded this pattern one star and discarded the project is palpable but, I feel, unfair to Bella. The reviewer is right that the photographed construction is hard to follow. A sample garment could perhaps be made in contrasting colours. There is a sew-along for this pattern on Bella’s own website. (It might have appeared after the reviewer gave up working on the Rosie.)
Bella put up the video explicitly to address the collar construction. She explains that the method is used in coat making and that she employed it to avoid puckers easily produced in some conventional methods. I strongly suggest a toile, viewing Bella’s demonstration which is done without a hitch, and viewing some more coat collar videos. I did all of that and I have made a coat and so I recognised the method although I then made the same mistake in joining the collar seams as I did with the coat!
Cutting, marking and matching needs to be super accurate so, another time, I would cut the pattern in single layers. My final fabric was a very light linen which frayed, and moved, easily.
If I hadn’t seen Bella do if perfectly, I would have said I wasn’t sure that the coat method translates easily to smaller, thinner pattern pieces. By the time I had unpicked the short and narrow corner seams of my linen, there was little left to work with. I did a lot more tacking (basting) than that recommended - which was none. I am not sure that the garment will survive being washed many times before the collar corners fray.
Much of the troublesome area is out of sight so, at the moment, my Rosie shirt does look pretty good. I love the style and have some thoughts of making another and hacking it into a shirt dress.
Picture taken without buttons or holes or hem!
Sent from Outlook for iOS
This is a well designed and executed pattern. Very neat and tidy without raw edges and a bias edge at the neck. I had a strip left after cutting a skirt and was just able to fit the pieces with side stripes across the grain. I have purchased the expansion pack and see more vetiver in my winter wardrobe. I have never been disappointed by French Navy.
The Islares is an interesting project to sew and the finished top is really comfy, but the square neckline makes it a bit different from a normal t-shirt.
The instructions are excellent and have a good level of detail. I thought sewing the square neckline might be a bit tricky, but it was actually fine. It's not as simple as a regular round neckline, but the instructions explain everything very clearly and I didn't have any trouble.
The sizing is good - I made the size recommended for my measurements, and it fits nicely. The top isn't tight-fitting, but it has a nice shape to it, and isn't at all baggy.
I've made a couple of versions for me and one for my mum and they've all turned out nicely.
I'd definitely recommend the pattern!