I’ve made this four times now and I love it. You can get really creative. I’ve used vintage tablecloths and fabric scraps. Great for gifts as sizing is not much of an issue.

Made this for my husband’s birthday for Christmas. He loves it and I really enjoyed making it. Will definitely make more.

I love this top as it has a larger cup size for a better fit. The neckline is really nice and the longer body makes it very practical. I made it in a black and cream stripe and I think it looks great.

Loved making this shirt. I made it for my husband’s birthday in a lovely navy and white cotton gingham. It fits him really well and he loves it too!

I recently purchased Celeste and couldn't wait to make it up. I had a really soft loose woven fabric that I felt would be perfect. I was easily able to grade between the sizes and the dress came out out fitting very well with no other changes. I may change how the facings are finished off next time, just to suit my sewing but this was a great 1st experience from Itch to stitch.

I made this dress out of an Ikea duvet! I'm happy with the way it turned out and plan to make a winter version in a heavier fabric and with long sleeves. I used rainbow continuous zipper tape.
A couple of modifications - I added back darts as I found that it stuck out strangely at the back. I removed the same amount from the back skirt and added a centre seam. I sized down one size from my measurements and I’m happy with the fit. I will change some steps in the collar finishing next time (I found that trimming it to the amount they suggested left me very little for finishing). But otherwise it was reasonably straightforward to follow the pattern and it turned out well!

I enjoyed making this jacket. The instructions are clear and I also used a couple of Youtube sew-alongs including one by Maison Fauve which were very helpful. I made it in this cotton boucle with ponte roma jersey trims.
It is an oversized fit and I think I will size down next time - in particular I find the shoulder is quite dropped and this seems to be a feature in lots of Maison Fauve patterns, just something to bear in mind when selecting a size. It is a nice variation on a bomber jacket and has some lovely features, like the curved back hem and the pleats.

I made this jacket using pre-quilted fabric and it comes together very quickly. Instructions are very thorough and clear. I'm partway through making a vest with the same pattern. The way it is constructed makes it very easy to adjust the fit. Recommended!

I have made two of these pullovers and they are some of the most versatile and comfortable sweaters I own! The pattern is great, very straightforward and comes together very quickly. I didn't do any modifications and I sewed the wool fleece version all on the overlocker.

I made this jacket in Merchant and Mills cotton jacquard and lined it with cotton lawn without quilting it. It's a lovely pattern and came together nicely. I made 1 size up from my measurements as my fabric was quite thick. The pockets are great and mean a bagless school run! Modifications I made were to ditch-stitch the collar on rather than handsewing, and to line it without quilting. The only quibble I have is the finishing of the pocket side inner seam - on the thick fabric and with the angle of the pocket it is quite visible. There's probably a nicer way to finish this which I will work on for next time!

A wonderful pattern with clear instructions which are easy to follow. Made the shirt first then adapted to make a dress with pockets!

This is my second Schoolhouse top, however this time I made it conventionally and not using an embroidered tablecloth. It was a different experience this time as I wasn't having to think about the placement of the embroidery. I decided to make the top version, the tablecloth one ended up being between top and dress length as I made most of the embroidery. I am very happy with the result, it won't be my last as it will be very useful. Love the 3/4 sleeves. The fabric is Japanese Cotton Shantung bought from Bugweeds in York

I had quite a bit of this colour gradient quilting cotton by Robin Pickens so decided to make the Roseto dressing gown, size S and making it half light and half dark. I added 1/2" seam allowance to the back pattern piece so that I could cut 2 fabric pieces, one dark and one light. The length, surprisingly was just right - I did the ankle version. I'm 5' 1 1/2" However the sleeves were very, very long...... I cut 4 " off each sleeve end and they slotted neatly onto the opposite ends to make a contrasting cuff, remembering to work out which way the flowers went! I did cut one front piece wrongly, due to wrongly working out the colours and direction of flowers! Very pleased with the finished garment. I find Itch to Stitch patterns have very good instructions.

Having made my toile some time ago, I finished my best version of this pattern. Some reviewers here seem to have been bamboozled and frustrated so it might be helpful to point out that M&M place their lay plans and notes after the instructions on page four. Illustrations of wrong and right sides are given and these are also clear in the illustrations. The reviewer who questioned the placing of pocket back on the back pocket bag was incorrect.
When laying out and cutting pieces, transfer all markings (presented as asterisks) in a way that doesn't disappear. That says tailor tacks to me. Cut all notches including centres on front and back of skirt and waistband. Ensure that you mark right and wrong sides, also top and bottom. Note that the skirt pieces have the option of a seam allowance if joining narrow fabrics. If cutting on the fold, the SA is not required.
I cut the waistbands wider than indicated having had trouble with my toile and only interfaced them at half height. When I attached them, I was able to match them to the sides of the skirt.
There is one tailor tack towards the bottom of the pocket which is vital since it appears and has to be matched on every piece. In some cases you are asked to stay stitch and snip to that mark.
I changed the order of work suggested in order to avoid a large bulk of fabric. It is quite possible to make up the front and the back, including the waistbands and to join the side seams afterwards. I think this makes the pocket work clearer to understand.
I started with the front and back pleats. The pattern identifies these with either tacks or notches. It also numbers the order in which to make the pleats and points the direction with an arrow. 1 to the centre, 2 to to the side, 3 (overlaps 2) to centre and 4 to the centre.
Make sure the top edges line up exactly and then machine baste.
All of the pocket work happens on the front of the skirt. Only the back button placket is attached to the back piece.
You can attach both waistbands before sewing the side seams. I did initially make a mistake in turning the button placket under. However, I was sufficiently accurate with marks and snips that I was able to French seam the skirt sides.
I'm pleased with my new skirt and feel that it was worth the work.

This dress went together like a dream and is a great fit for my curvy size 14 figure. I used the C/D option. It's rare to find a softly fitting dress with darts these days but this has two sets of darts at the front and one set at the back of the bodice. As a result it has both a fitted shape with some ease instead of hit and miss bagginess. I made the button front version and it has a lovely curved neckline. I made the curved hem version. It's not very defined so might shape and cut higher at the sides next time. I used a rayon crepe, absolute top choice for this dress style. I'm planning a maxi version hack next and know I'll use this pattern a few more times.