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Top 10 patterns

Top 10 Indie Jeans Sewing Patterns

September is a great time to sink your teeth into a meaty project that introduces new sewing skills and allows you to enjoy a spot of slow sewing. Jeans are probably one of the garments we wear the most, and yet sew the least (because they are on the fiddly side!). The best thing about this project is how much wear you will get out of just one pair. They can be dressed up or dressed down and are incredibly hard-wearing. Plus, once you get into the rhythm, topstitching is one of the most pleasing techniques in sewing!

The other new and exciting thing about sewing jeans is you can customise your jeans with choice of topstitching thread (I generally opt for upholstery thread as it seems to tangle less, but is still as strong) and hardware (buttons, rivets and zips). We know from experience that sourcing quality hardware can be a challenge, so we’ve added Kylie & the Machine jeans hardware kits to the shop to make things a little easier, and they are the bee’s knees!

Here are ten jeans indie sewing patterns that we think are top-notch!


Anna Allen Helene Jeans

Woman wearing the Helene Selvedge Jeans sewing pattern from Anna Allen on The Fold Line. A jeans pattern made in selvedge denim, non-stretch denim, drill, cotton canvas, twill or corduroy fabrics, featuring a high waist, two front scoop pockets, coin pocket, two back pointed patch pockets, slight hip shaping, V-shaped back yoke, straight waistband, belt loops and concealed button fly or zipper fly.

My top pick for versatility and excellent pattern drafting has to be the Anna Allen Helene Selvedge Jeans. Anna spent a long time developing this pattern which is based on heritage denim jeans from the 1930s-1960s. They include all the details you’d expect from a pair of jeans from coin pocket to belt loops, but also includes thoughtful details such as slight hip shaping, a V-shaped back yoke and a traditional straight waistband.

The best thing about this pattern is the range of leg options, so you can get a lot out of one pattern. You can opt for a zip fly closure or a traditional button fly. The instructions are really comprehensive making it a great pattern for your first pair of jeans. I’ve made a pair and am determined to perfect the fit and make this my go-to jeans pattern!

Fit: High Waisted with a choice of four styles: View A – Straight, View B – Slim Straight, View C – Wide, and View D – Shorts.

Denim: Non-stretch / selvedge denim

Sizing: UK 6 – 22 or UK 16 – 32

Format: PDF


Closet Core Ginger Jeans

One of the first indie jeans pattern releases and still one of the best – the Closet Core Ginger Jeans is a popular pick! The Ginger Jean is your go-to style if you want something that can be dressed up for dinner and drinks, worn with a blouse for work or a sweatshirt at the weekends.

I made a pair of Gingers in a jet black denim and they are still as good as when I sewed them a few years ago. Closet Core’s Heather Lou is definitely an expert when it comes to sewing jeans so you are in very safe hands. Closet Core Pattern’s pants fitting adjustment free resource is one of the best out there!

Fit:  View A features a low rise, straight “stovepipe” leg and traditional fold-over front pockets. View B has a high rise, skinny leg and a pocket stay sewn into the centre front.

Denim: Stretch denim

Sizing: UK 6 – 20

Format: Paper


Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans

Another hugely popular design in the sewing community – the Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans is a great pattern if you are after variation. Inspired by Megan’s hunt to find the perfect pair of vintage jeans, the Dawn Jeans are classic high-waisted rigid style. The pattern includes four cuts and multiple lengths for tall, regular and cropped. I have seen so many amazing versions of this pattern out there I’d definitely love to sew a pair myself!

Fit:  High rise to sit on the natural waist. View A is tapered-leg jeans. View B is straight-leg jeans. View C is wide-leg jeans. View D is a jean short.

Denim: Non-stretch denim

Sizing: UK 6 – 20

Format: Paper


Cashmerette Ames Jeans

The Cashmerette Ames Jeans pattern is great for anyone who wants a tailored look for apple or pear shapes. It’s quite unique to offer fits for particular shapes so they are a good one to try if that’s something you struggle with when hunting for jeans. These 5-pocket wardrobe essentials feature rivets, belt loops and a fly front. Hold the style together with a high rise and pocket stay for secret smooth shaping.

Fit: High rise with interchangeable pelvis (apple or pear fit) and leg (skinny or straight) pieces

Denim: Stretch denim

Sizing: UK 14 – 30

Format: Paper


I AM Patterns Sunshine Jeans

Woman wearing the Sunshine Jeans sewing pattern from I AM Patterns on The Fold Line. A jeans pattern made in denim, twill, corduroy, cotton velvet, linen, serge (chino) or gabardine fabrics, featuring a tapered leg, Italian pockets, coin pocket, back patch pockets, rivets, fly front, waistband with belt loops and contrast topstitching.

The I AM Patterns Sunshine Jeans are a rather modern take on a trusty pair of jeans. You can either make them with a tapered leg or as a slouchy pair of jeans. They have all the details of classic jeans: Italian pockets, a coin pocket, back patch pockets, rivets, a fly front, a waistband with belt loops and contrast topstitching. I really love this shape and think they are perfect for off-duty style.

Fit: High rise with tapered or slouchy leg

Denim: Non-stretch denim

Sizing: UK 6 – 18

Format: PDF


Itch to Stitch Eddystone Jeans

The Itch to Stitch Eddystone Jeans feature a classic five-pocket design and a pocket stay to keep pockets in place and trim the tummy. Choose from two styles: girlfriend fit and demi-boot fit. The girlfriend fit is fitted from the waist through the hip with tapered legs that give you the perfect amount of ease, balancing comfort and femininity. The demi-boot fit is similar to the girlfriend fit, but with a subtle flare starting at the knees.

Fit: High rise with girlfriend fit or demi-boot fit

Denim: Stretch denim (Go up one size at the waist and hip if using bottom weight fabric with no stretch)

Sizing: UK 8 – 22

Format: PDF


The New Craft House Everyday Jeans

Women wearing the Everyday Jeans sewing pattern from The New Craft House on The Fold Line. A jeans pattern made in denim, corduroy or twill fabrics, featuring a super high-waist, snug fit through the hips and bum, relaxes out at the thigh, straight leg, back patch pockets, back yoke, front pockets, coin pocket, belt tabs, fly zipper and button closure.

The New Craft House teach jeans sewing classes so it’s no surprise that when they developed their own range of sewing patterns they created their own! The Everyday Jeans will be your go-to jeans. They are super high-waisted with a snug fit through the hips and bum that relaxes out at the thigh with a straight leg, giving you plenty of movement. Prepare to wear these jeans more than anything else in your wardrobe!

If you do want to attend an in-person workshop to learn how to sew your own jeans, The New Craft House (based in London) is well worth checking out!

Fit: Super high-waisted with a straight leg

Denim: Non-stretch denim. These jeans can be sewn with a 1-2% stretch fabric, but the designer would recommend sizing down and sewing a toile to make sure the fit is correct.

Sizing: UK 6 – 34

Format: PDF


Merchant & Mills The Heroine Jeans

Woman wearing the Heroine Jeans sewing pattern by Merchant and Mills. A jeans pattern made in non-stretch denim fabric featuring a straight leg, turn ups, topstitching, fly zip and front and back pockets.

If you like vintage-style jeans, this would be a great choice. The Merchant & Mill Heroine Jeans are fitted to the waist with a straight, generous leg and a healthy turn-up. The stitching on the back pocket makes the Heroine Jeans even more individual! You can also buy some seriously delicious denim from Merchant and Mills so that’s your fabric sorted!

Fit: Fitted, high waist

Denim: Non-stretch denim

Sizing: UK 6 – 18

Format: Paper and PDF


Wardrobe by Me WBM WOMEN’S JEANS #1

Woman wearing the WBM Women's Jeans #1 sewing pattern from Wardrobe by Me on The Fold Line. A trouser pattern made in denim or canvas fabrics, featuring a straight-leg, curved waistband, front fly with zipper, curved front pockets, coin pocket, pointed back pockets and back yoke.

The Wardrobe by Me WBM Women’s Jeans #1 sewing pattern has the full package. This is a pair of classic, slim jeans with a straight leg and details include a curved waistband that sits at the belly button, a front fly with zipper, curved front pockets, a coin pocket, pointed back pockets, and a back yoke. Complete the look with heavy topstitching, rivets and a jeans button.

Fit: Sits at the belly button with a straight leg

Denim: Non-stretch denim

Sizing: UK 8 – 20/22

Format: Paper and PDF


Sew Over It Ultimate Jeans

Woman wearing the Ultimate Jeans sewing pattern from Sew Over It on The Fold Line. A jeans pattern made in non-stretch denim, corduroy or twill fabrics, featuring a slightly flared leg, fly zip, back patch pockets, fronts pockets, coin pocket, belt loops and top stitching.

The only jeans pattern you’ll ever need – a true classic in three different styles! Make your perfect pair of Sew Over It Ultimate Jeans by choosing between a cropped ‘mum jeans’ version, a timeless straight leg or a slightly flared leg for a vintage touch. This pattern includes all the features of classic blue jeans from the topstitching to the hardware to the coin pocket. The clearly illustrated instructions will guide you through each step to achieve the sewer’s milestone of making your own jeans!

Fit: High waist with ‘mum jeans’ fit, straight leg or slightly flared leg

Denim: Non-stretch denim

Sizing: UK 6 – 20 and UK 20 – 32

Format: PDF

Browse all jeans sewing patterns


And we don’t just have the patterns in the shop… check out the Kylie & the Machine Jeans Hardware kits!

This kit contains the hardware and tools to complete your dream denim projects! Choose between four different metal finishes: copper, matte black, matte gold or pewter.

Kit includes: 

Hardware for 2 pairs of jeans.

2 x YKK locking jeans zippers (15 cm long with a nickel finish)

2 x zipper “top stops” for use in shortening the zipper to a custom length

3 x jeans buttons and nails (one extra just in case, or keep for another project)

12 x rivets and standard nails (most RTW jeans have 6 or fewer rivets per pair)

12 x longer rivet nails (for installing rivets on bulky coin pockets or for very thick denim)

1 x reusable tool kit including a 3 mm awl, circular anvil, rivet setter and button setter. Please note that you will need your own hammer to use this kit.

1 x instruction sheet with additional photo and video tutorials which can be accessed through a QR code.

KATM have shared this great video tutorial that guides you through the installation if you prefer watching the steps to following the detailed instructions.

Shop the Kylie & the Machine Jeans Hardware Kit

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2 thoughts on “Top 10 Indie Jeans Sewing Patterns

  1. Thank you for a wonderful blog post!
    Yes, jeans are definitely my winter project and I’m confused by all the many patterns out there.
    Think it’s gonna be the Helene Jeans to get started.

    Liz

  2. Really useful article, thank you. Does anyone have experience of a sewing machine capable of sewing jeans easily? Mine struggles with buttonholes on thicker waistbands.

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