Tessuti Fabrics Oslo Coat

I was terrified of making this coat for some time, because tailoring is scary right? Turns out it's not scary at all and I just needed to take the plunge.

This pattern's instructions were very easy to follow and I more or less love the final product. It came together easily and I was especially impressed with the lining technique.  But the pattern has a few flaws.

The pictures are too dark, so unhelpful if you're a visual learner.

The shawl collar rolls up at the back. This may just be my forward shoulder but I followed the instructions and I think the only way I could have avoided this is by using overly stiff interfacing.

The sizing also leaves something to be desired, I'm just above the top measurements but this is a loose fit and it was the only pattern I could find in the shape I wanted at the time.

My main alterations were an FBA, a sway back adjustment and lengthening the sleeves.

More on my process at https://aitcheysews.wordpress.com/2021/04/06/__trashed/

My first “semi tailored” coat in a long while, and I’m delighted with it.  I bought the last 2m of Abraham Moon wool melton from Guthrie and Ghani in the autumn and had another pattern in mind, then G&G restocked so, I bought another meter and had sufficient for the Oslo coat. The lining is Lady McElroy oriental vines which I also saw at G&G but again it was the end of the roll and insufficient so sourced it at Sherwood Fabrics.

While I’m very happy with the result and have made Tessuti patterns before, the photographs are very unclear and the instructions rather confused at times.  However, that said, I enjoyed sewing it.  I used a bound button hole so that had to be the first stage after cutting out and adding the interfacing.  I tacked the front and back together to check the break would be ok on me having read it was low. It was fine so used the pattern’s buttton hole placement.  The pockets however were way too low so I moved them up about 5cm.  I shortened the sleeves by 5cm and lengthened the coat by about 8cms and I’m only 5’4” - its now about knee length.  I wanted a coat that I could wear over a jacket or thick jumper and this fits the bill - a little large with only a fine jumper but I’m pleased I made the 16.  I was concerned that the two piece raglan sleeve might be too wide on my narrow shoulders but they are fine.

Having read many reviews of this pattern it seems we’re all saying the same thing, diagrams would be so much better the photos really don’t work even with the additional photos using calico.  I didn’t print the instructions so I was able to enlarge the photos on my iPad but even that didn’t really help. It’s a great pattern and beginners could easily make it, if Tessuti abandoned the photos and used a good illustrator.

Really simple coat that can highlight great fabric. It's my first time using a Tessuti pattern and it was a very different experience, having grown up on Vogue patterns and some formal design training. The paper pattern is real paper. I sewed the size 10 (I am a size 6-8 in Vogue patterns and a 32" bust). I wanted to make sure it was roomy and after measuring the sleeves, added an extra 2". The sleeves come to my thumb knuckle, which is where I like it, but also allows me to roll up to show off the contrast lining if l like. I added a bound button hole in the kasha lining and a hand-sewn button hole for the interior button. The instructions were deeply detailed with photographs instead of line drawings and very specific directions. As a personal preference, I prefer line drawings and don't need quite so much handholding (telling me to backstitch on every seam and press the seams open seems a little excessive. What else would you do?) At some point, I just ignored the instructions and did what was logical. That said, I would absolutely make this coat again in a lighter fabric - this one is a heavy wool melton with a kasha lining. Definitely recommended, especially if you've never made a coat before.

I sewed this up over a few evenings and it was pretty enjoyable. It’s not a pattern for beginners but it’s not difficult if you’ve made a coat before. I’ve not used Tessuti patterns before and I would recommend this pattern. I would have preferred line drawings for the instructions, but that’s just personal preference and the instructions were useful nonetheless. The sizing was spot on and I like the low pockets (though others have raised them). I used a vegan faux Melton and satin lining. I would definitely make a bound buttonhole next time.