Style Arc Hope Woven Dress

I expected far more from this dress. I thought I’d love it in this Atelier Brunette two sided Double Gauze, but I don’t. I will wear it, mainly because I love the fabric, but I doubt I’ll make the pattern again. As always with Style Arc, the instructions are poor.

This is the most comfortable dress ever. I nearly went to bed wearing it....I made size 20, judging that to have the best ease for my large bust - although I would have liked a sizing guide rather than just the finished measurements.

I think it's a good fit, and the neckline sits nicely rather than being too big - usually I have to do a FBA and I would recommend making a toile if this is you.  The back fastening isn't needed but I enjoyed sewing it.

The instructions were adequate, although I didn't appreciate having to cut them from the single pattern sheet. For the best part of 20 quid I want my instructions in a booklet.

I would also prefer to have varying seam allowances listed in the instructions rather than a dotted line printed on the pattern: the intro states that seams are either 3/8 or 1/4 inch but doesn't say which bits are which. I used 1/4" for the neck facing. I also used a generous 5/8" for the waistband, as no way would 3/8 hide the gathering stitches. I also had to unpick some stay-stitching that was showing at the neck. The instructions don't mention stay stitching but I always do it - next time it will have to be consistently narrow, with that 1/4" neck seam.

The construction is very simple and would be beginner friendly were it not for the neck fastening and the unusual pocket/sleeve elastic methods.  I've seen someone comment that the Style Arc in-seam pocket method gives good results, but I was in too much of a hurry - I'll give it a go next time, as I enjoy trying new things. I did get a bit confused and flat stitched the pocket edge before joining front and back, which made for a slightly awkward side seam. But this somehow makes the pockets easy to find - and they're absolutely in the perfect place! Wonderful pockets!

The method for inserting the sleeve elastic - joining it first and then adding it to the channel *as you sew it* was a bit alarming, but it appealed to me as I'd had enough of pressing hems etc. I overlocked the sleeve opening first, and discovered that the best way is to pull the sleeve through the ring of elastic and fit them both round the sleeve bit on the machine. Then fold and sew the channel around the elastic, stretching as you pull the fabric through. You need three hands to start with, but the second sleeve went well. Doesn't make for the neatest finish on the outside, but it's not really visible.

I pattern blocked using two different fabrics.  The raglan sleeves and the skirt use a lot and I couldn't get both from 2m, hence the contrast band on the skirt. Both fabrics were 2m and I didn't have a lot left.

I will definitely make this again.  I found the estimate for the elastic was pretty accurate but I prefer a looser opening so I will either lengthen it or gather into a band with a placket if needed.  The pattern piece for the rouleau loop was a bit superfluous. Other than that, I can't see any changes that need to be made. Fabulous pattern!

The illustration on the cover of the Style Arc Hope dress kept catching my eye, but I resisted buying it because it is so similar to another pattern I have made (I Am Patterns Cassiopée). I kept dipping into the Hope dress hashtag (#SAHopeWovenDress) on Instagram which pretty much confirmed that the pattern is a winner and I was missing out, so I bought a copy!

I had recently purchased 2.5m of this lovely shirting weight cotton by Ruby Star Society which I decided to use for my dress, but I checked the pattern and saw that it required 2.5m of 58″ wide fabric and mine was only 44″. Not having enough fabric is one of my favourite challenges, so I pulled out all the pattern Tetris stops and managed to cut everything I needed (although I did have to make some compromises - the stripes on those sleeves are NOT symmetrical.) What I did not compromise on was that back bodice seam, which I managed to pattern-match perfectly.

I made my dress over a weekend and it was lovely to sew. I will mention that the Style Arc instructions are very minimal, so if you are quite new to garment making there may be some steps that are not explained in enough detail for you – just something to bear in mind. I chose to make the size 8 dress and I’m really pleased with the fit – it’s very comfortable to wear and has good proportions for my frame. The pattern boasts two skirt lengths – a knee and midi option, but for some reason my copy did not have the knee-length cut line printed on it. I managed to work out from the finished garment measurements that this should be 25cm shorter than the midi-length dress so I was able to draw my own line, but this was a bit annoying.

I really love my Hope dress and I'm so pleased I decided to buy the pattern! I haven't worn it much yet as it has been quite chilly, but now the warmer weather is coming I'm looking forward to swishing around in it a lot. If you would like to see more photos of my dress, head over to my recent blog post here.

The Style Arc Hope Woven Dress was a remarkably easy sew. The back of the neck is supposed to have a button and loop closure but I cut the back on the fold and I can get it on over my head so didn’t bother with the extra seams. I was between the size 12 and 14 and after reading some reviews I decided to size down rather than up. I am glad I did as I don’t think I would want it any bigger. I love the roomy design though!
Style Arc patterns have a very minimalist approach to instructions so I am glad this isn’t my first sew, they often don’t tell you when to finish seams and there was no mention of understitching the facing. Saying that, I had zero problems with this dress pattern and it sewed up quickly and easily, I found it to be well drafted and all the pattern pieces fit together beautifully. They do show in detail the pocket construction, and it is different to how I usually sew in-seam pockets but I LOVED this method. I will definitely be doing it the Style Arc way for all future in-seam pockets.The linen is from Minerva and was a joy to use, it behaved very well during cutting, pressing and sewing. It was honestly a joy to work with! I did find the length of the skirt to be a bit long for my personal taste. I am 5’7” and after finishing (and hemming!) the dress, I decided to take it up a further two inches. I am happy with it for now but could always shorten it again if I decide to.