Papercut Patterns Axis Dress and Skirt

This is the second time I've made this dress, and this time I've managed to get the fit just right by being brave and sizing down at the bust to remove gaping in the front of the arm syce.

It is so worth making a toile for this dress to achieve this fit across the bust. I know many sewers have sized down in this area. I also lowered the neck line by 1cm, took up the waist and moved the slit to the back.

All the details regarding my journey on the make are in my blog post

The other change was to swap the facing for the bib to a full lining. This makes the insides so much neater.

This dress is so far out of my comfort zone but I love it!!

It’s a construction like I’ve never seen before. The ties, as I have tied them, hide the invisible zip at the top of the rear of the skirt. The top section is only connected to the front of the skirt.

I couldn’t find much guidance on the sizing in reviews of this dress. So  in accordance with my measurements made the size 3/4 at the bust, grading to a size 5 at the waist and back down to a size 3/4 at the hip.

I did not make a toile, I just adjusted as I went along.

With hindsight I could have started a whole size down every where.

It gaped under the arm so I lowered the armsyce at the front and took the whole thing in 1cm down each seam, continuing down to the bottom hem.

Then it still flapped around my upper bust, so I made 2 darts to take this out, without first taking off the facing!. It’s pretty ugly on the inside but only I ( and now you!) know that!!

Next time I would also lift the waist seam by one inch, and drop the top of the front by an inch too.

I LOVE the back! I intentionally worked these stripes horizontally. There's lots more detail on my blog https://lovelucie.org/2022/03/10/papercut-patterns-axis-dress/

I am quite surprised this pattern doesn't have any reviews yet as it's such a gorgeous pattern! I made this in an Ankara Wax fabric and it worked beautifully for the pencil skirt view (there is also an A-line skirt included in the pattern). I definitely think that Papercut sometimes try and keep their patterns simple for easier sewing/beginners rather than making more complicated patterns with a higher finish. This pattern should definitely be manageable for most sewists that have made a couple of things. The top is a true wrap top so it is possible to make some fit changes by how you tie the ties. The skirt is fitted and closes with an invisible zip at the centre back.

I think the design is unique and looks beautiful, I will definitely be making this again. Next time, for a higher finish I will line the front bodice (as the back is already lined) and will be mitring the corners at that skirt split. By using another fabric to line the wrap pieces, I managed to get the pencil skirt view out of only 1.5m of fabric!

If you want any more information, or want to see more pictures you can visit my blog.