Named Helmi Trench Blouse and Tunic Dress

This pattern had the high neck and long sleeves I needed for a summer jacket to go over an Issey Miyake dress made from Vogue 1563 (1995!).  With bare arms it works perfectly.

I used the body from the Helmi tunic dress combined with the long sleeves from the trench blouse, and copied the cropped curved hem from upper segment of the Issey Miyake pattern.

I cut size 40.  At 5 foot 3 inches tall I needed to shorten the sleeves by 1.25 inches.  With 5 and 3 layers of fabric for the buttonhole fly and button-stand respectively, I opted to reduce these to 4 and 2 and overlock the inner edge rather than fold it in.

The pattern goes together beautifully.

I’m not a shirt wearer. I like the idea of them and love how they look on other people, but I’ve bought many shirts over the years and barely worn any of them! As a non-shirt wearer, the Helmi pattern wasn’t on my radar at all until Kate from the Fold Line featured it in her ‘Sewing plans 2019’ YouTube video. I liked the simple lines of the pattern and it sounded like a good place to start for someone with very little shirt-sewing experience. I bought the pattern from Kate herself at the Knitting and Stitching show and I’m so pleased I did!

It really is a great pattern if you have limited experience of things like collars, button stands and hidden plackets – everything is so well explained in the instructions and the design is sleek and straightforward.

I chose to use some beautiful drapey Atelier Brunette moonstone viscose for my tunic and it suits the garment perfectly. It’s lovely to sew with, but very delicate as I found out when I somehow made a hole in one of my bodice pieces and had to sew the whole thing again! Other than that slight hiccup, it was plain sailing and a thoroughly enjoyable sew that came together easily over the course of a few evenings.

I made the size 3 with no alterations, which fits me really well (I’m 5’4″ and a UK size 8/10). I love the versatility of the tunic – I’ve worn it to work with tights and boots, but also dressed it up with heels for a night out! It’s even prettier than I imagined and I will definitely be making another!

This is my first Helmi and I love it! I think this was my first time sewing a hidden button placket and the instructions were very straight forward and made it an easy thing to do. I actually made the tunic version but decided it didn't work on me, perhaps because of fabric choice. In this fabric it looked a bit like a nightshirt! So I shortened it to shirt length, keeping a nice curved hem, and I really like it. The fabric is a crepe so has good drape and doesn't wrinkle.

This is my third Helmi and I think my favourite!
I adore this pattern as its beautifully drafted and can been worn in many ways.

For this version I lengthened the skirt and added side splits and a belt.
I love the concealed button placket as its gives a nice clean finish as does the simple mandarin collar. The instructions are so easy and clear to follow its perfect for someone who wants to make their first shirt dress. I made this version in a cotton poplin which was lovely to sew and lovely to wear.