Closet Core Patterns Mitchell Trousers

I’ve had a Guthrie and Garnie Sewing Society Mitchell Trousers kit for several months and had put off making them because of fitting issues. So I decided to make a toile in similar fabric (a medium weight wool) to check the fit. I made a size 8 grading to size 10 at the waist. I constructed the pockets and facings as a size 10. I checked the fit before sewing the outside leg seams and needed to make the outside leg seam allowance 2cm and the same with the inside leg seam. The crotch was low so I increased my seam allowance there to 2.5cm. Then I had to adjust the facings to fit the top of the trousers which was fairly straightforward. I finished the fly guard and facings with Hong Kong seams and lined the pockets with the same Liberty fabric which gave the trousers a luxurious professional looking finish. The fly zip took me a whole afternoon to complete on my toile and 20 minutes on my “proper” pair. I love both pairs and how they fit and am about to start my third pair in a brushed back twill for warmth. A very rewarding make and I learnt a few new skills. If you search for me on Instagram under my name @melaniekeane  you’ll see some more photos.

I’ve had a Guthrie and Garnie Sewing Society Mitchell Trousers kit for several months and had put off making them because of fitting issues. So I decided to make a toile in similar fabric (a medium weight wool) to check the fit. I made a size 8 grading to size 10 at the waist. I constructed the pockets and facings as a size 10. I checked the fit before sewing the outside leg seams and needed to make the outside leg seam allowance 2cm and the same with the inside leg seam. The crotch was low so I increased my seam allowance there to 2.5cm. Then I had to adjust the facings to fit the top of the trousers which was fairly straightforward. I finished the fly guard and facings with Hong Kong seams and lined the pockets with the same Liberty fabric which gave the trousers a luxurious professional looking finish. The fly zip took me a whole afternoon to complete on my toile and 20 minutes on my “proper” pair. I love both pairs and how they fit and am about to start my third pair in a brushed back twill for warmth. A very rewarding make and I learnt a few new skills. If you search for me on Instagram under my name @melaniekeane  you’ll see some more photos.

These are high waisted trousers with facing instead of waistband. They have narrow or wide leg options. Front pleat hides pockets in very neat construction. They have waist ties with slider or D rings - for small adjustments.  ( facing is to your actual size). They also have back welt pockets.
I made one size down from my measurements with minor tweaks. It’s a nice fit. Mine are cropped length and the wide leg version. I used sliders on my toile version the some rectangular ‘D rings’ for wool version. These are better.

The instructions are excellent, although I must have slipped up somewhere with pocket facings but no one could tell.
The look and feel very smart. I used a fine black wool from Guthrie and Ghani.

Initially I was disappointed in the pattern. I bought paper version but instead of lovely tissue paper, it’s copy shop paper. Bah! This means the trouser leg is split into 2 pieces of paper and illogically top of back leg and bottom of front leg share a piece and vice versa. Why?

The welt pockets look good but aren’t deep enough for a phone  wish I’d realised.

If you’re using a directional print for the lining, make sure the top of print is by the facing piece  not the welt cut out on the pocket facing . They’re designed so the pocket lining shows inside( only you will know but it’s a nice touch).  I’ve got upside down zebras on mine  too late to alter now.

There was an error in the seam allowance printed in the booklet. 5/8” was converted to 10mm- should be 15mm.

If pattern companies are going to use copy shop paper , it’ll be better to get the pdf and print it yourself. Then you at least have the pdf version too. Shame if this is the case.

Final trousers are lovely. There’s just enough cool weather left this year for me to wear wool trousers. They feel great and I love the cropped length too.

A linen pair for summer would be lovely.