Closet Core Patterns Fiona Sundress

Oh my goodness me, this make has been a looooong time coming! The pattern was given to me by my sister 18 months ago, and the fabric I’ve had in my stash for about 2 years. All that time I’ve been planning this make and it’s finally done! To say I’m chuffed is an understatement.

The Fiona Sundress is a fitted, princess seamed button down dress by Closet Core Patterns. It has an interesting straight or cross strap variation, with a corresponding straight and low back bodice. There’s also two different lengths to choose from. I decided to go for the low back - cross strap style, in the shorter length.

I graded from a size 2 at the bust, to a 4 at the waist, and back to a 2 at the hip, which is bang on what my actual measurements are. I didn’t make any alterations initially to the paper pattern pieces, cutting straight into my denim. Now because I was flying by the seat of my pants and not toiling (naughty me) I sewed the bodice (without finishing any seams), the darts in the back skirt, then basted the whole rest of the dress together leaving off the pockets and just the facing for the top band. This gave me a great idea of the final fit. I was surprised to see that the bust didn’t need any alteration, the princess seams sat pretty perfectly. There was a little bit of excess at the hips, I needed to take the straps up an extra 2cm and the back skirt darts needed adjusting, but that was about it. My thinking was that at this basted together point - I could take in or out the side seams, alter the princess bust seam to a certain extent, and ensure the top band was sitting reasonably flat. So I spent a good hour tweaking the straps so they sat flat to my body, altering the back skirt darts until I was happy with these and getting the fit right at the hip.

As usual Closet Core Patterns instructions are very good. Just enough detail and they include alternative ways of doing things if you have a preference. This pattern is rated at a 3/5 difficulty, the trickier parts being getting the fit right, forming a neat top band piece, topstitching, getting the strap placement and adjustment right and using either buttons/buttonholes or snaps as the front fastening finish. There’s lots and lots of steps but individually each of them are not that hard. I would say getting the fit right is probably the hardest part of this pattern.

I LOVE this dress, and I can't wait to wear it more often when the weather warms up a little!

I've written a more in depth review on my blog which you can check out here: https://thatssewpeachy.wordpress.com/2020/10/18/the-closet-core-fiona-sundress-in-white-denim/

Best wishes,

Holly x

I used some fantastic navy cotton corduroy for this make and instead of having buttons down the front, I decided to hack the pattern by removing them and have an exposed zip at the back. I made View A with the higher back and cut the length at around midi long - because I added a seam at the back I was able to make a vent in the back of the skirt. Read about how I altered the pattern on my blog: https://norfolkdaphne.wordpress.com/2019/01/19/a-closet-case-fiona-sundress-hack/

I made my version in a linen/rayon blend for my holiday. It was very easy to sew and fit. The instructions are clear and I had a near perfect fit the first time, despite having to grade between three sizes. I really loved playing with the direction of the stripes. The only modifications were taking out a wedge of fabric in the back (my usual sway back adjustment) and shortening the straps. It is certainly a lot of buttonholes but it was worth it. I'm planning to make a short closed back version in something heavier for layering in cool weather.