Kate’s Sewing Patterns Melissa Dress

It began with a visit to a Swedish-based ready-to-wear (RTW) website.

The colors were captivating, the styles were flowing and easy. The mix and match possibilities were endless. The prices were stultifying

Really, any excuse for new fabrics and patterns is a good one. So began my deep dive into duplicating the elements of the RTW pieces I so admired.
First, the button-front pin tucked dress that also served as an over coat in some outfits. The important features here: flowing fabric, button front placket, pin tucks, of course, and long full sleeves.

Enter the Melissa Dress pattern from Kate’s Patterns. I purchased the PDF. Things I noticed: not very easy to tape together. The alignment markers are not adequate, so you have to be very careful. Not a deal breaker, but when you are anxious to get to the good part, it’s annoying.

I made some immediate modifications, since I wanted front opening. Fairly straightforward by cutting the back on a fold, and transferring the plackets and placket allowances to the front. I also lengthened to sleeves.

I chose challis fabric from Art Gallery fabrics.

I cut out the pieces, and should have stay-stitched all edges requiring such because I know better. But there is no mention in the directions, and I did not. Big mistake. There is no mention of the standard seam allowance in this pattern. Those of us long-time sewists in the states have grown up with 5/8” seams. I realize the world has changed dramatically, but a pattern company should not take for granted that the sewists will know to use the European system of seam allowances. So I often resorted to measuring the seam allowance as portrayed on the pattern pieces themselves, just to double check.

The included photos are in brown, and don’t seem to jive with the directions on the page. But it could just be my printer.

After having made pin tucks for the first time using this pattern, I recommend this NOT be the pattern to use if you are just learning to make pin tucks.The included directions could hav been much better presented. For me, I need step-by-step. Bullet points are very handy. I tried slogging through the paragraph of directions, checked my Vogue Sewing Book, researched sources on-line, and ended up sort of inventing my own method involving chalk, basting, sewing, ironing, and realigning as I went. Overall, the outcome was adequate. But left big problems I discovered shortly thereafter. This is where the stay stitching would have made all the difference.

I sewed the shoulder seams and discovered the neckline was far too large for the facing. The pin tucks were sewn to spec, but the fabric had stretched out dramatically in the process. I modified the neckline by taking up the shoulder seam at the neckline edge, and tapering the seam down to the armhole edge. It worked, but made the sleeves shorter. Thank goodness I had lengthened the sleeves. Now they were at the three quarter length the pattern is designed with. I also included side seam pockets. I always include pockets in any garment I can easily add them to. With the cut of this dress, the pockets are well hidden and don’t seem to add extra bulk. I used self covered buttons.
The rest of the sewing went pretty well and I am generally happy with the results. I will be adding other pieces to coordinate with this dress.

A

[caption id="attachment_466119" align="alignnone" width="273"] Pin tucks at front shoulder[/caption]

learning experience , for sure!