THE FOLD LINE VIST - THE BIBA STORY: 1964 - 1975

The stars aligned and our quarterly Fold Line content meeting just happened to be a short walk away from the Fashion + Textile Museum, just days away from the Biba exhibition ending. I had to secure my ticket. Naturally, I took a ton of pictures and rather than allowing them to sit on my phone collecting meta dust, I thought I'd share them with you. 

If you've never been to the Fashion + Textile Museum it is worth adding to your bucket list. This small exhibition space delivers just the right amount of input without leaving you feeling too tired by the end to take it all in.

The Biba Story: 1964 - 1975 exhibition charts the journey of the brand from its catalogue success all the way through to becoming a blueprint for lifestyle brands.

Packed full of archive pieces personally picked by Barbara Hulanicki, there were so many garments to lust over and you can get close enough to scrutinise those groovy details. Now I just need a time capsule to step into the iconic store, grab some baked beans and dine in the Rainbow Rooms. If you were a Biba girl, I am sure you have some stories to tell.

Pattern matching is what we do, so I've pulled together a few vintage and modern pattern suggestions for recreating some of my favourite looks from the exhibition.

The Swingy Shift

This carefree style epitomises that era. The hemlines were high and the prints were bold and the sleeves were loose and long - aka, "I am not doing the washing up in this". It was no longer about blending in, it was all about standing out.

1. Maison Fauve Atlas Dress and Blouse
2. Tilly and the Buttons Marnie Dress and Blouse
3. Sew Over It Ultimate Shift Dress
4. The Patterns Room Pansy Dress and Top

The Day to Night Dress

I stood in front of this dress for a tune or two. It is the perfect day to night piece and is just how I imagine a Biba girl to dress. Throw a gilet over it in the day time and a pair of platform sandals for a night of dancing.

1. Sew Love Patterns Springe Dress
2. Burda Dress and Blouse 6040

The Belted Trench

Every good Biba girl needs a coat, don't they? This hip bottle green velvet number really caught my eye. Taking the classic style away from a not-on-Biba-brand beige, it shows you what a difference your fabric choice can make.

1. Vogue Coat V9367
2. Vogue Coat V8884

Deep V-Neck Dress

A gown with a touch of glamour is oh-so Biba and is equally oh-so now! This stunning silhouette features feminine floaty sleeves (I think they go by angel sleeves). It would be a great choice for a wedding or party frock.

1. Tessuti Fabrics Lois Dress
2. Fibre Mood Agatha Dress
3. New Look Dress N6766

Sultry Wrap

One of the most iconic pieces of the 70s, the wrap dress is given a Biba twist with a sultry low wrap, voluminious sleeves and statement sash. I can imagine it was the Biba store Rainbow Rooms restaurant dress code.

1. Simplicity Vintage 1970's Dress S8013
2. Vogue Dress V1762

The Suit

I saved the best for last... the groovy suit! The monochrome suits were not about blending in, the cut curved in at the waist and the open collar allowed for a bold blouse to pop out from underneath. Suiting for women has come back in a big way and it's nice to find some modern styles that nod to this 70s power pair.

1. Vikisews Eteri Blazer and Hilary Trousers
2. Vogue Vintage Jacket & Trousers V1966
3. Vikisews Solange Blazer and Carla Trousers

I am an avid collector of exhibition books so I had to take this one home. I plan to spend some cosy autumn afternoons pouring over my copy which details through the eyes of the people who built the brand - including the iconic shop managers.

If you want to delve deeper into Barbara Hulanicki and the world of Biba, here are some things to read and listen to...

1. Biba: The Fashion Brand the Defined a Generation by Barbara Hulanicki and Martin Pel
2. From A to Biba by Barbara Hulanicki
3. Welcome to Big Biba by  Steven Thomas and Alwyn W Turner
4. The Biba Years by Barbara Hulanicki and Martin Pel

1. Dressed: The History of Fashion - Biba, an interview with Barbara Hulanicki and Martin Pel
2. BBC Woman's Hour - Biba at 50
3. BBC Hardtalk - Interview with Barbara Hulanicki, founder of Biba

Hope you've enjoyed joining me on my exhibition trip. If you have any Biba stories or visited the stores, firstly I'm jealous, but secondly we'd love to hear about it! Leave a comment below or drop an email to hello@thefoldline.com.