EASY WINTER COATS

EASY WINTER COATS
Louise Carmichael

EASY WINTER COAT SEWING PATTERNS

Are you considering adding a coat to your handmade wardrobe? If you've never sewn outerwear before the prospect can be a little daunting but believe me, if you can sew you absolutely can make a coat. To set yourself up for success a little research is a good idea. I distinctly remember sewing my first coat, and although it turned into something wearable that I was very proud of, I wished I'd chosen something more approachable rather then my dream design.

I am the ghost of your sewing future delivering a shortlist of 10 easy coat sewing patterns that are ideal for your first rodeo. Whether you are browsing for your first coat sewing project or love an easy make, you will love this list!

When it comes to sewing a wool coat, there are certain tips and tricks that can make the process smoother and more successful. Here are a few tips to get you started, but I will say that YouTube is your friend and you can't watch too many tip videos!

Choose the Right Fabric

One of the most important aspects of sewing a wool coat is selecting the right fabric. Opt for high-quality wool that is specifically designed for outerwear. Make sure to read up on the designer's suggested fabrics as these will work best for your project. If in doubt, ask! Fabric retailers are usually very helpful and you can often request samples so you can get a good feel of the fabric.

Prep Your Fabric Properly

Before you start cutting and sewing, make sure to properly prep your wool fabric. You should be able to get care instructions from the fabric retailer so you can follow those. This Core Fabrics article has some great ideas for pre-treating wool fabric.

Use the Right Needle

When sewing with wool, it is crucial to use the right needles and thread. Opt for sharp, high-quality needles that are designed for heavy fabrics like wool. 

Take Your Time with Cutting

Precision is key when cutting out the pieces for your wool coat. Take your time to ensure accurate cutting and smooth edges. This is especially important if your coat has raw (unfinished) edges - you want them nice and neat!

Press as You Go

Pressing is essential when sewing a wool coat to achieve professional-looking seams and finishes. Be sure to test press on a scrap before letting your iron loose on your main project. Use a pressing cloth and a steam iron to press seams open and flat as you sew. This will help the wool fabric lay nicely and create a polished final result.

These are just a few suggestions and you can deep dive into the subject but my personal advice is to get stuck in and learn as you go.  

Tessuti Fabrics Berlin Jacket

I'm kicking off with a pattern that I've seen many sewists use for their first coat, the Berlin Jacket. There are quite a few features that make this style a great choice for making your first coat. Berlin is a collarless design with extended dropped shoulders (so no setting in sleeves), is unlined and has turn up cuffs. It's designed for boiled wool that doesn't fray when it's cut, so you don't have to faff around with finishing seams.

SizingUK 8/10 - 18 or UK 18/20 - 24 

Megan Nielsen Hovea Jacket

Hovea is mostly know for it's quilted variation, but you can also make an easy-to-sew coat with the pattern. The pattern features multiple lengths; deep angled feature pockets; unlined, full lining or quilted options; and belt or tie closures. You can use boiled, felted or suiting wool for the coat version and make yourself a quilted jacket at a later date!

SizingUK 6 – 20 or UK 14 – 34 

Sew Over It Jessie Coatigan

My mum used this pattern for sewing her first coat in a cosy teddy fabric and the result was lovely. A coatigan is a great style to choose as there are no fiddly buttonholes to sew and you can use a lovely textured fabric. The swing shape with a shawl collar give Jessie a vintage feel and the raw edges at the centre front are finished with a wide facing to keep the seams hidden. Jessie is unlined, but you can buy an add-on pattern if you would like to make it lined. 

Sizing: UK 6 – 20 and UK 18 – 30 

Style Arc Wren Jacket

I have seen this style in a well-loved UK department store, so you can be bang on trend while sewing something easy. The boxy shape is easy to sew and looks great with trousers and midi skirts. The optional scarf and blanket stitch are a must! Style Arc instructions aren't illustrated at every stage so we say they are best for confident makers, but there is an extra tutorial on their blog for Wren.

Sizing: UK 4 – 16 or 18 – 30 

Tessuti Fabrics London Coat

If you love a cosy chuck-on style, you will love London. With raw hems and edges, there is no need for fiddly finishing so the pattern will come together remarkably quickly. The coat front has a 4" overlap which can be left open or secured with a feature pin and the horizontal hip seam, with in-seam pockets, provides an opportunity for colour blocking. This pattern requires boiled wool fabric that doesn't fray when cut.

SizingUK 8/10 – 24 

Papercut Patterns Nova Coat + Jacket

Now, this pattern is technically rated intermediate as it is lined which can be a little fiddly to sew, but I have seen so many makers use it for their first go at sewing outerwear. The cocoon silhouette and angled seams make this a really visually interesting design and fun project to sew. The front pockets are cleverly hidden in angled front seams so it kind of has secret pockets!

SizingUK 4 – 20 or UK 18 – 36 

The Avid Seamstress Wimborne Coat

Another cocoon-shaped coat, Wimborne features a beautifully shaped collar travelling down the front of the coat giving this every day style a touch of elegance. It's fully lined so that is a little more fiddly but it will give you a long-lasting finish. It's quite a flexible pattern as you can use light to heavy weight woven fabrics, so this is the one if you have your heart set on a particular fabric.

SizingUK 6 – 26

I AM Patterns Harry Cape

I thought I'd offer up a wildcard option in the form of a chic cape! This swishy circle cape is fully lined and features in seam pockets so you don't have to worry about going without. It has buttons down the front but you could swap this out for sew-on coat snap fasteners have have a clean placket front instead.

SizingUK 6 – 18 

Alice + Co Patterns Copenhagen Coat

Designed for doubled-face fabrics that don't fray, Copenhagen is ideal for your first coat sewing project. It's packed with thoughtful features, such as the roomy patch pockets and a pinked edge, single layer collar, raw pinked hem and one statement button. It's designed with room for a sweater and is super easy to fit.

SizingUK 6 - 24/26 

JULIANA MARTEJEVS Nelly Coat

I am going to leave you with a completely different option. One that is sewn by hand - no sewing machine required! Nelly is the perfect slow sewing from the sofa project made using only a simple hand embroidery technique. Choose a wool fabric that doesn't fray and reserve the best spot on the sofa for you sewing time.

Sizing: UK 6 - 20

I hope that has been helpful. Remember, sewing is your superpower and a coat is just a collection of pieces that need to be stitched together - you've got this!

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