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The Foreman Jacket

Merchant and Mills

Inspired by traditional workwear of the early fifties, the practical and hardwearing Foreman is an unlined utilitarian jacket made to take charge.

This is a multi-size paper pattern in an envelope, including sizes 36 – 46.

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Find out more about this pattern from Merchant and Mills here.

Additional information

Fabric

Denim / Corduroy, Heavyweight Cotton / Twill / Gabardine, Wools / Suiting

Size

One Size, UK 2 / US 00 / EU 30, UK 4 / US 0 / EU 32, UK 6 / US 2 / EU 34, UK 8 / US 4 / EU 36, UK 10 / US 6 / EU 38, UK 12 / US 8 / EU 40, UK 14 / US 10 / EU 42, UK 16 / US 12 / EU 44, UK 18 / US 14 / EU 46, UK 20 / US 16 / EU 48, UK 22 / US 18 / EU 50, UK 24 / US 20 / EU 52, UK 26 / US 22 / EU 54, UK 28 / US 24 / EU 56, UK 30 / US 26 / EU 58, UK 32 / US 28 / EU 60, UK 34 / US 30 / EU 62

Sewing level

Intermediate

Make time

All weekend or longer

Please leave a review

5 out of 5 stars

3 reviews

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What others are saying

  1. One person found this helpful
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    5 out of 5 The Foreman Jacket

    Denbeesewswhat

    I bought the paper pattern on a visit to Merchant & Mills in Rye last year on the understanding that I would get it made up fairly soon for my husband – finally managed it 6 months later! I understand now that M&M’s have stopped making this as a paper pattern but it can still be bought as a PDF.

    The pattern itself is printed on a lightweight paper or heavyweight tissue depending on how you look at it and the instructions are clear and easy to follow.

    I initially measured my husband (shoulder width, sleeve length, chest etc) and then made a toile of the size 36 with the adjustments – it was too small! So I made a second toile in a straight 36 with no amendments and the fit was almost perfect. I just shortened the sleeves by ¾ inch. My husband is 5’4” with a 38”chest. I was very pleased that was the only adjustment I had to make.

    I made it up in some mid-weight dark blue non stretch denim.

    The overall construction of the jacket was incredibly straightforward as this is a simple workwear jacket design. However as the denim frayed quite a bit and because I wanted to make this extra special I decided to bind all the seams. I gave my husband the choice of binding and he picked a bright orange viscose binding from my stash.

    I also lined the pockets by cutting a section of lining fabric slightly larger than the finished pocket and then hand stitching it on. Of course you could probably sew the lining onto the pocket and bag it out somehow. Lining the pockets was an afterthought after I had made them which is why I did it that way.

    I also used the same lining fabric as the under collar stand and added a hanging loop in too.

    I decided to take my time with this – a slow sew and was really pleased with the finished item as was my husband.

    Overall a straightforward jacket (especially if you don’t bind all the seams!) and I can see myself making more of these for him.

    For more pictures checkout my instagram @denbeesewswhat

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    The Foreman Jacket

    StTrinians

    The Foreman – 2 years in the making Merchant & Mills completed 24.12.17 This was a present for my son. A couple of years ago, when discussing what he’d like for Christmas, Felix sent me a link to a rather trendy menswear label, he really wanted their simple unlined cotton twill jacket, costing about £175. I said it looked so simple, I could easily make something like that, and I would rather get him something else, or several somethings, that he might need instead. During the Christmas holidays he mentioned the jacket again, and I started researching patterns, finally landing this pattern, at the suggestion, I think, of a fellow member of the Sew Obsessed group on Ravelry. Never having made this sort of thing before, and following the very good advice of the sewing blogs I read, I made up a draft version, using an old heavy linen sheet I had bought for 1 euro in a brocante in France, following size 38 and all the instructions to the letter. This fitted him perfectly, but for one problem, in his eyes – the armholes (armscythes?) were too big. When he lifted his arms up, the whole jacket went up too, and when moving arms backwards, the jacket felt tight across the chest. Not that he spends much of any given day waving his arms around in this fashion, but it bothered him, and I could see that the armholes were indeed cut quite low compared to some other more formal jackets of his Dad’s. Over the next year I researched the subject of how to adapt the armholes and sleeveheads, got distracted by other sewing projects, work and life in general, and no progress was made whatsoever. At one stage I was excited to happen upon an edition of Threads magazine which promised to explain how to redraft patterns to address issues of this sort. Unfortunately the maths left me baffled, and with my model living in London, I couldn’t easily take the measurements needed. Christmas 2016 came and went, and in the meantime Felix bought himself the original jacket in a sale at a greatly (I hope) reduced price. So when we next met up in May I was able to see this jacket, whose sleeves and armholes behaved properly, in the flesh, and could see the difference compared to my Foreman toile. Armed with greaseproof paper, I traced the front, back and sleeves as best I could, and in due course created a very basic 2nd version out of an old duvet cover. Success! The duvet cover version met Felix’s demanding standards, now I just had to make the darn thing. The swatch of dark blue cotton twill (£5/metre) that I had picked up at a local store would have been fine – but the shop had closed down in the interim, so after fruitless searching online I reverted to Merchant & Mills’ own indigo twill (£15/metre), I had ordered swatches of some of their fabrics when buying the pattern originally. We had a weekend trip planned to Sussex in August, and part of this was my pilgrimage to M&M in Rye (if only I lived closer, I would be in there every week). But no, the indigo twill was out of stock, so I had to wait to get it from them mail order a few weeks later. Sewing finally commenced, November 2017. A blue & white pinstripe lining had been requested by my client, and I had found just the thing a couple of months ago at Cloth House, but when I went to order the full amount, in early December, it was no longer listed! Further frantic searching online produced a good alternative at My Fabric, I just hadn’t realised they were in Germany… Fortunately it arrived well within the 7 days stated, and the jacket was finally completed on Christmas Eve, just in time to be wrapped up and placed under the tree, Felix arrived home from London that evening. I am pleased to say he was really happy with it, and wore it a couple of times over the next few days. The final seal of approval was wearing it for the journey back to London, instead of his beloved Carhaart jacket. Like all good home-sewn projects, there is an element of adaptation, and in this case it was the improvised lining. I had intended to research how to insert a lining so as to look like that in my shop-bought coats, but in the end, up against the clock, I just tucked it under the front and neck facings, which are then, per the pattern, top-stitched in place. As pattern writing goes, this pattern is not overly helpful with tips and assumes you pretty much know what you’re doing. You don’t get the detail and links that you would get e.g. from Colette, but having sewn a first draft of the jacket and kept quite a few notes at the time, the actual sewing, once I got the fit right, was a doddle. I’d never made as collar like this before, but it turned out perfectly with no fussing whatsoever. and I’ve been avoiding garments with buttonholes for years because they looked terrible done on my old ancient sewing machine. I treated myself to a new Janome DKS 100 a couple of years ago and it does the buttonholes (and most other things) beautifully. I’m so pleased, now I can move on.

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    The Foreman Jacket

    beckyk

    This pattern sewed up really well and looks exactly like the example I would say it is probably advanced beginner. I made it up in a reasonably heavy weight cotton twill. My husband has now requested two variations so clearly he is happy. I am now really looking forward to making up some of the other Merchant and Mills patterns, but for ladies, that I have bought in their recent book. It does feel quite structured with the addition of the interfacing so I will be trying one without for a softer look.

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