Good utilitarian design

James sailor Jacket

Being a sailor, I thought I would make this because it’s been too wet and windy actually to go sailing. I would call it a smock as I see they do on the Ready to Sew website. Having read the notes in the pattern and the reviews here, I toiled the body top. I needed size 40 which is only two down from the largest provided. I’m rtw UK 12-14.

The French instructions have been indifferently translated into English with typographical and punctuation errors remaining. However, they are easy enough to follow. There is a “sew along”, with photos, on the website.

I lengthened the neck opening so that I could easily put the smock on whilst wearing my glasses. This also meant lengthening and grading the front facing. I lengthened the body by 2.5cm as I am more than average tall.

I made the smock in a stout, pre-washed calico. It’s on the light side and will be worn over something else. Thicker fabric would cause some very heavy seams where they cross over but could be managed with bigger needles etc.

There is a choice of a pouch or a side pocket. I chose to make two side pockets and place them so that they were anchored in the side seams. I also made them only one thickness, turned in at the edges and bound inside the top. I dispensed with the small top inside pocket as couldn’t see the point. Considered adding a larger one on the outside the same shape as the others but wasn’t sure what I would put in it.

There is a range of seam allowances depending on whether French seaming is required. I tried to remember to lengthen stitches when top stitching and return them to standard afterwards and also to re-centre the needle. I need to put a post-it note on my machine!

The bottom of the neck opening is an area of high risk with a slight margin between a clean finish and disaster. I practised it on offcuts before finally sewing, slashing and top stitching on the actual garment.

I finished the facings as well as the hem with contrasting self binding. I did wonder whether to interface the collar. It’s a bit floppy.

This is a good, utilitarian design. I hope to go sailing in it soon and I expect I may eventually dye it a darker colour.