Schnittchen Patterns Silvia Coatigan

I made the Silvia Coatigan in a wool fabric and didn't line ist, because I wanted to make more of an cardigan than a coat.
The instruction are very good and it was quite easy to follow them. Also fitting was easy.
If you aren't lining the coat like me don't miss to finish the edges with bias tape.

I’m sure if you’re a more experienced seamstress - or can read the original German instructions - this would be a much more enjoyable sew. For context, I consider myself slightly above “advanced beginner”, but not quite at “intermediate” level.

I used pink wool from Fabworks, Rifle Paper Co. rayon from Sew Me Sunshine for the bodice and pocket lining and viscose-blend lining fabric from Like Sew Amazing for the sleeve lining. In my infinite wisdom, I interlined with fusible fleece. I don't think this is what it's intended for and I wouldn't recommend it!

I was between a UK 8 and 10 on the size chart but opted for the 8 as I usually size down in RTW coats.

Be warned: the instructions are REALLY sparse and there aren't any pictures. There's a link to a separate album of photos but I didn't find these particularly enlightening. I muddled through most of it but really struggled with the collar: I couldn't get my head around sewing a 90 degree and 270 degree angle together!

I recommend Grainline Studio’s tutorial on bagging out a lining as the pattern instructions don't go into any detail. Also, despite the pattern pieces and seam allowances being the correct size, the lining was really baggy. A few people have reported the same issue with this pattern so I don’t think I did anything wrong! I pulled the lining down 1cm onto the inside hem, and top stitched it in place. It's still a little "droopy" but it looks much better.

This was not an enjoyable sew by any stretch of the imagination, but I’m pretty happy with the finished result.

Full blog post here.

I made the lined PDF version.
Materials I used:
Purple boucle tweed wool blend knit from Minerva Crafts for main fabric
Blue mid weight polyester from The Textile Centre on eBay for lining
Purple gutermann thread
Stretch needle no. 75
Walking foot
Used all straight 2.6 stitch length

The PDF pattern I used was really straightforward and simple to piece together. The instructions are pretty basic - there are some photos online (link on the pattern) but I found the description didn't always match the photo so still took a bit of working out! I cut out a size 42 based on rounding up my measurements. I knew this was a casual oversize fit anyway and that went with the slouchy jacket/cardigan style I wanted. I did add 1 1/2" to the length of the sleeves as they did seem a bit short and a couple of other reviews I read said they had done that too (obviously forgot to do that on the lining so had to cut that twice!). A couple of the notches, I think on the front panel, I just couldn’t work out what they were for so went ahead anyway - everything went together fine so still none the wiser. I did find the neckline and hemline fiddly and my mannequin, Dolly Dot, really helped me out. After some head scratching, I eventually worked it out by popping the jacket on Dolly Dot as if I was wearing it, pinning on the right side where I needed to stitch then turning the inside out and replacing the pins to the inside, then stitched. I just could not work them out by working on the wrong side first! The fabric I used would not press at all (although the lining was worse than the boucle) so the seams are a bit bulky. I did understitch the pocket lining - the pockets puff out a bit but the understitching stops the lining from showing. I thought about edge stitching the collar but actually glad I didn’t as I think this might have made them stick out a bit. Still not 100% sure I finished the hem correctly but it does work - I just need to slipstitch the 2cm gap that was left in the hem between the collar facing and the side section. And I’ll probably add a button to hold it all together. If I made it again - which I probably will - I would make in a smaller size. I do like that I made it in a drapier fabric than heavier wool and the fabric I used is super cosy and warm. Perfect for autumn wear ?✂️❤️