Merchant and Mills

Merchant & Mills Shepherd Skirt

Regular price £18.50 GBP
Sale price £18.50 GBP Regular price £18.50
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We print out the A0 pattern sheets, but you’ll need to download the digital instructions, as we don’t print these. The PDF files will be emailed immediately after purchase, and the printed A0 pattern sheets will be dispatched next working day.

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Buy the Shepherd Skirt sewing pattern from Merchant & Mills. A pleated A-line skirt with slanted pockets and side button fastenings. Soft and floaty in linen, or smart and hardy in cotton twill. Can be made lined or unlined.

This sewing pattern is available to buy in the following formats:

– PAPER (next working day dispatch on orders and FREE UK delivery over £50)

– PDF (available to download immediately after purchase). What is a PDF?

– PDF pattern + Printed A0 copy shop (We print out the A0 pattern sheets, but you’ll need to download the digital instructions, as we don’t print these. The PDF files will be emailed immediately after purchase, and the A0 pattern sheets will be dispatched next working day). What is Copy Shop?

Suggested fabrics: Linen, cotton poplin, cotton voile, cotton sanded twill, hemp blends, tencel/linen, needlecord, 4-8 oz. denim, lightweight wool, Indian handlooms (if narrow you may have to piece).

Fabric requirements: 

Sizes 6 – 18

Self: 110 cm (43 1/2″) wide fabric (with nap): 4.3 m (4 3/4 yd) // 110 cm (43 1/2″) wide fabric (without nap)*: 4 m (4 1/2 yd) // 120 cm (47″) wide fabric: 2.4 – 4.3 m (2 3/4 – 4 3/4 yd) // 140 cm (55″) wide fabric: 2.1 – 2.3 m (2 1/4 – 2 1/2 yd) // 150 cm (60″) wide fabric: 2.1 m (2 1/4 yd).

Lining (lined version): 110 cm (43 1/2″) wide fabric: 3.8 m (4 yd) // 120 cm (47″) wide fabric: 3.8 m (4 yd) // 140-150 cm (55″-60″) wide fabric: 2.3 m (2 1/2 yd).

Lining (unlined version): 100-150 cm (39″-60″) wide fabric: 0.4 m (1/2 yd).

Sizes 18 – 28

Self: 110 cm (43 1/2″) wide fabric (with nap): 4.1 m (4 1/2 yd) // 110 cm (43 1/2″) wide fabric (without nap)*: 3.9 m (4 1/4 yd) // 120 cm (47″) wide fabric (with nap): 4.1 m (4 1/2 yd) // 120 cm (47″) wide fabric (without nap)*: 3.9 m (4 1/4 yd) // 140 cm (55″) wide fabric (with nap): 2.3 – 4.1 m (2 1/2 – 4 1/2 yd) // 140 cm (55″) wide fabric (without nap)*: 2.3 – 3.9 m (2 1/2 – 4 1/4 yd) // 150 cm (60″) wide fabric (with nap): 2.3 – 4.1 m (2 1/2 – 4 1/2 yd) // 150 cm (60″) wide fabric (without nap)*: 2.3 – 3.9 m (2 1/2 – 4 1/4 yd).

Lining (lined version): 110-120 cm (43 1/2″-47″) wide fabric: 3.8 m (4 1/4 yd) // 140 cm (55″) wide fabric: 2.5 – 3.8 m (2 3/4 – 4 1/4 yd) // 150 cm (60″) wide fabric: 2.5 – 3.8 m (2 3/4 – 4 1/4 yd).

Lining (unlined version): 100-150 cm (39″-60″) wide fabric: 0.35 m (1/2 yd).

* Waistband parallel to the selvedge

Sizing: UK 6 – 18 or UK 18 – 28 (approx. UK 6 – 16/18 or UK 18 – 30, based on our standardised size chart). Please also check the designer’s size charts and finished garment measurements.

Notions: Eight 15 mm (3/4″) buttons; 0.35 m (1/2 yd) interfacing.

PDF pattern includes: Instructions; A4/US letter print-at-home pattern (42 pages for either size range); A0 copy shop pattern (2 sheets for either size range).

If you’re looking for more maker inspiration, check out the latest sewing pattern reviews from the sewing community. We also have a sewing blog to keep you up to date with all the news from the world of sewing.

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Customer Reviews

Based on 11 reviews
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M
Milie Holliday
Lovely skirt; so original.

Having made my toile some time ago, I finished my best version of this pattern. Some reviewers here seem to have been bamboozled and frustrated so it might be helpful to point out that M&M place their lay plans and notes after the instructions on page four. Illustrations of wrong and right sides are given and these are also clear in the illustrations. The reviewer who questioned the placing of pocket back on the back pocket bag was incorrect.
When laying out and cutting pieces, transfer all markings (presented as asterisks) in a way that doesn't disappear. That says tailor tacks to me. Cut all notches including centres on front and back of skirt and waistband. Ensure that you mark right and wrong sides, also top and bottom. Note that the skirt pieces have the option of a seam allowance if joining narrow fabrics. If cutting on the fold, the SA is not required.
I cut the waistbands wider than indicated having had trouble with my toile and only interfaced them at half height. When I attached them, I was able to match them to the sides of the skirt.
There is one tailor tack towards the bottom of the pocket which is vital since it appears and has to be matched on every piece. In some cases you are asked to stay stitch and snip to that mark.
I changed the order of work suggested in order to avoid a large bulk of fabric. It is quite possible to make up the front and the back, including the waistbands and to join the side seams afterwards. I think this makes the pocket work clearer to understand.
I started with the front and back pleats. The pattern identifies these with either tacks or notches. It also numbers the order in which to make the pleats and points the direction with an arrow. 1 to the centre, 2 to to the side, 3 (overlaps 2) to centre and 4 to the centre.
Make sure the top edges line up exactly and then machine baste.
All of the pocket work happens on the front of the skirt. Only the back button placket is attached to the back piece.
You can attach both waistbands before sewing the side seams. I did initially make a mistake in turning the button placket under. However, I was sufficiently accurate with marks and snips that I was able to French seam the skirt sides.
I'm pleased with my new skirt and feel that it was worth the work.

S
Sue Ross
I love this - but..

I enjoyed making this, but will definitely make the front and back separately, and THEN put them together, as others have suggested.
However, I found the pocket construction maddening, and I'm a fairly experienced sewer.
Section 6, where it says 'place pocket back at the top corner of back pocket bag' please say 'wrong sides together. It feels very counterintuitive and I got it wrong at first, and only willpower prevented me from chucking it in a drawer.

L
Liz
Gorgeous skirt: tricky but well described

Getting the pleats sorted was a bit tricky, but the pattern guides you through, and the end result is worth it. I love the volume of the skirt, and the big pockets, and the side fastenings are a gorgeous detail.

L
Liz45red
Definitely a fiddly make

I am a M&M fan but found this very fiddly. There are many different pieces to the pockets , and as it is also an opening the pockets facings. On one side I sewed my french seam the wrong way round and because my fabric, a John Louden linen look slubbed cotton frayed easily I didn't want to unpick so snipped the edge off and then turned it and sewed it the other way one pocket is slightly smaller on the inside.

As others have said there is a large amount of bulk and trying to pleat is difficult. In hindsight it would probably have been easier to make the front and back separately and then put together. It did take a fair amount of head scratching to get the pleats right as you have to do them in a certain order. I did cut a couple of extra centimeters on the waistband pieces as others said these pieces were a bit tight. I took 3inches off the hem when cutting out. I bought buttons but again due to the fraying fabric I have used hooks and bars on the waistband and press studs on the side pocket facing instead.

Overall I like the look but feel the instructions weren't great and i consider myself experienced. I got there in the end but did make adjustments. I did have plans to make a fancier version in a brocade but don't think I will do another now.

M
Milie Holliday
Lovely skirt - Merchant & Mills

I love this skirt. The overlaid pleats and button details give it real elegance. I made my trial version in brushed cotton and didn’t get the small checks quite in line. The pattern is easy to follow although see my notes below about the waistbands. 
To avoid dealing with so much bulk, it’s completely possible to make the skirt in reverse order, finishing with the long side seams. First, I folded the pleats on each separate piece. The order (1 to 4) is given. Two pleats are marked with notches and two with tailor tacks. Each has a direction; the second goes the opposite way to the other three and is overlaid by the third making part of the top of the skirt quite thick. You need to fix the pleats with machine basting or industrial strength tacking and make sure they are lined up exactly.
I then did all the work on the pockets. I loved the nifty French seam on the bags. There is a facing on the back of the skirt and all the rest is joined to the front of the skirt. Lining the pieces up and matching the facings required accuracy and attention to seam detail. There is a reinforced tack with a slit which appears numerous times and all must be matched. Lots of tacks to come out at the end. I kept finding them!
I attached the waistbands with the front and back still separate. I did find the waistbands a bit short and, at this stage, went back and redid the pleats. Even so I had to take in a bit more than prescribed in order to make the band fit. The front pattern piece does include an extra seam allowance for joining pieces cut on narrower fabric but I’m pretty sure I didn’t include that. I cut a size 14 which should have been roomy but, with the waistband issue, it came up pretty snug.
I joined the front to the back last, before hemming and making button holes. I was taught to hang a finished garment and hem at the end so stuck with that once front and back were joined.
The skirt hangs really well, moves beautifully and is flattering. (I think so anyway!) On my next make, I shall use the thinnest of thin interlining.