Folkwear 151 Japanese Hakama and Kataginu

Buy the 151 Japanese Hakama and Kataginu sewing pattern from Folkwear.

During the Edo period in Japan (1615-1868), members of the samurai or warrior class wore the kamishimo, made up of the kataginu (pleated-front vest) and hakama (pleated pants/skirt). The two garments were typically worn over a knee-length kimono for formal occasions. Today, the garments are still worn for official events and martial arts.

Since the hakama is simply a large rectangle of fabric pleated to fit your body, no pattern pieces are needed. Complete instructions for measuring, cutting, and pleating are provided instead. The pattern does include pieces for the hakama's koshiita (backboard) though, as well as instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

The wide-shoulder kataginu can be made to match the hakama for a traditional samurai appearance or as a contrasting wearable art accent. Easy to pleat and sew, it completes a dramatic outfit.

Note: The Thai blouse from 134 South Asian Tops and Wraps is paired with the hakama in the cover photo (and traditionally wraps right over left, unlike Japanese garments, which wrap left over right for living people).

This sewing pattern is available to buy in the following formats:

– PDF (available to download immediately after purchase). What is a PDF?

– PDF pattern + Printed A0 copy shop (We print out the A0 pattern sheets, but you’ll need to download the digital instructions, as we don’t print these. The PDF files will be emailed immediately after purchase, and the A0 pattern sheets will be dispatched next working day). What is Copy Shop?

Note if purchasing copy shop printing: One of the pattern pieces is divided across two A0 sheets. The two sheets will need to be joined with no overlap. The printed pattern does not include the hakama (no pattern pieces needed).

Suggested fabrics: 

Kataginu: Crisp, tightly woven cottons; linens and linen blends; ramie; hemp; silks, including shantung, habotai, pongee, satin, or taffeta. Note you may have to starch the fabric to preserve the pleats.

Hakama: Same as kataginu, but also lightweight wool suiting.

Fabric requirements:

Kataginu: 45" or 60" (114 cm or 152 cm) wide fabric: 2 yd (1.83 m).

Hakama: 54" or 60" (137 cm or 152 cm) wide fabric: 2 3/4 - 5 3/4 yd (2.6 - 5.3 m). Note yardage requirements are provided for up to a 48" waist, but for sizes larger than 42" you will need to calculate the pattern measurements yourself using the information provided in the pattern.

Sizing:

Kataginu: One size.

Hakama: Waist 24" - 42" (approx. UK 6 - 24, based on our standardised size chart). Note instructions are also provided for calculating personal pattern measurements for sizes larger than 42".

Notions: Interfacing or other stiffening material for the koshiita (backboard) insert.

PDF pattern includes: Instructions; US letter/A4 print-at-home pattern (33 pages); 36″ wide copy shop pattern (1 sheet); A0 copy shop pattern (2 sheets) // Layers: No // Projector file: No. Includes pattern pieces for the koshiita (backboard) and kataginu (vest) only. No pattern pieces are needed for the hakama.

If you’re looking for more maker inspiration, check out the latest sewing pattern reviews from the sewing community. We also have a sewing blog to keep you up to date with all the news from the world of sewing.