Birgitta Helmersson ZW Cropped Shirt PDF

This was the first zero waste pattern I used and I had a great experience. I wanted to use this pattern with some very narrow width vintage fabric that I had in my stash so I actually made myself a paper pattern using the ZW cutting instructions and then used my template to figure out how to use my very narrow fabric. It worked great and also resulted in zero waste which was good too! My most successful versions of this pattern are with the long sleeve option in very drapey fabric. My favourite version used a bolt end of some Meet Milk Tencel from Minerva in a gorgeous rust colour that I have received alot of compliments for. I have also made two versions in a shirting/poplin style fabric which were less successful as the cut is a bit stiff and boxy so if the fabric has little drape the results can be a bit too boxy. My other tip is that the shirt is roomy enough to pull over your head so it is an option to sew the buttons on straight through both sides of the front, avoiding the buttonholes (making this a quicker, easier and generally less intimindating sew). I bought Birgitta's book after using this pattern and I also really love the shirt block in there which actually I prefer, but is more complicated to make. In brief, this pattern turned me on to the joy of ZW sewing and I recommend it for anyone curious to try this method.

This is my second version of this pattern and I was glad to have practised first with my wearable toile.  This version does need slightly more fabric than the main version (1.1m rather than 0.9m) which wasn’t really clear in the instructions.  I’d only ordered a metre, but luckily had been given 1.1m 😀. As mentioned in my previous review, the instructions are definitely on the brief side, especially for this gathered sleeve version, but I managed to find some you tube videos which helped.  I can’t believe you can get such a voluminous garment from so little fabric, so it’s definitely a win!

I made this version as a wearable toile using some left over linen fabric.  I enjoyed making it, but I did find the instructions a little on the brief side at times and the diagrams were not particularly clear, so not much help. However, it’s an amazing pattern and I thoroughly applaud the zero waste ethos, so it was definitely worth persevering with

While I admire the zero waste aspect of this pattern, I have to say that the instructions for the construction are quite poor. I found the illustrations were not marked clearly as to whether you were looking at the right or wrong side of the fabric, and the text, especially when it came to the facings, was very confusing. In the end I have decided to unpick and finish without the facings, so for me, not a zero waste make, and I probably won't make another one.

I've made 3 of these shirts so far. I think it's genius.  This time I used a tie fastener and added some topstitching on the neckband for some texture.

As you'd imagine, this uses precious little fabric (this top was made from curtains I picked up at a charity shop). The pdf gives you dimensions which can be drawn directly on to your fabric, but I chose to make templates instead. It's a loose fit which enables you to omit the buttonholes and just sew the buttons through the neckbands if buttonholes fill you with angst. Small wonder I've made three.