Birgitta Helmersson ZW Bell Jacket PDF

Birgitta Helmersson

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Buy the ZW Bell Jacket sewing pattern from Birgitta Helmersson. This is an oversized jacket with a rounded collar, front button closure, three front patch pockets, an inverted box pleat at the centre back neck, and wide sleeves to fit over all your winter layers. The Bell Jacket gets its name from the bell-shaped sleeve, created with several darts in the sleeve hem. The jacket is fully lined.

The pattern also comes with two hack options: a shirt with a square collar and an unlined quilted jacket. The instructions for the hacks (online only) are accessed using links in the pattern instructions.

THE METHOD

Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern does not require printing large pattern pieces. Instead, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and templates. This method has several advantages:

1. More flexibility. This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use leftover fabrics you already have lying around.

2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns. Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting which is super easy for beginners to understand.

3. Less fabric and paper waste!

NOTE: With the exception of some templates, this zero waste pattern has no pattern pieces. You will draw the pattern directly onto your fabric by following the step-by-step instructions and using the templates. The cutting plan/templates document prints on 11 A4/US letter pages (5 pages if printing the templates only).

This sewing pattern is available to buy in the following format:

– PDF (available to download immediately after purchase). What is a PDF?

Suggested fabrics: Ideal in a wool or heavy weight denim or heavy cotton drill. For the lining, something with a bit of weight that has a nice drape. Required lining width is very specific and is based on the width of the outer fabric.

Fabric requirements: 

Required width for OUTER fabric: 145 – 155 cm (57″ – 61″)

Required width for LINING is based on OUTER width:

145 cm (57″) OUTER = 135 cm (53″) LINING

150 cm (59″) OUTER = 140 cm (55″) LINING

155 cm (61″) OUTER = 145 cm (57″) LINING

Required yardage (this is a guide only, as these requirements may change a little if you want to adjust the lengths of the sleeves and body):

Size One: OUTER = 130 cm (51″) // LINING = 120 cm (47″)

Size Two: OUTER = 150 cm (59″) // LINING = 140 cm (55″)

Sizing: Size One and Size Two (approx. UK 12 – 32, based on our standardised size chart). Please also check the designer’s size charts.

The charts indicate the MAXIMUM bust and hip measurements for different fabric widths by size. As long as your bust measurement is the same as or less than the maximum indicated, then the fabric width/size you are using will be suitable. This sizing allows for approximately 15 cm (6″) ease from the actual garment measurements.

Note that due to the zero waste nature of the pattern, the design features are slightly different for the two layouts. Size Two has more of a dropped shoulder than Size One, as well as two panels added to the centre back body.

Notions: Iron-on fusing in a mid-heavy weight; 4 cm (1.5″) wide binding, approx. 150 cm (59″); 4 buttons, approx. 2-2.5 cm (0.75″-1″) wide.

Additional tools: Chalk or dissolvable pen; large right angle ruler and/or long straight ruler.

PDF pattern includes: Instructions (with links to online tutorials with colour images to help with the more involved steps); A4/US letter print-at-home templates (5 pages). Other than the templates, this zero waste pattern has no pattern pieces.

If you’re looking for more maker inspiration, check out the latest sewing pattern reviews from the sewing community. We also have a sewing blog to keep you up to date with all the news from the world of sewing.

Additional information

Fabric

Denim / Corduroy, Heavyweight Cotton / Twill / Gabardine, Wools / Suiting

Make time

All weekend or longer

Sewing level

Intermediate

Size

UK 12 / US 8 / EU 40, UK 14 / US 10 / EU 42, UK 16 / US 12 / EU 44, UK 18 / US 14 / EU 46, UK 20 / US 16 / EU 48, UK 22 / US 18 / EU 50, UK 24 / US 20 / EU 52, UK 26 / US 22 / EU 54, UK 28 / US 24 / EU 56, UK 30 / US 26 / EU 58, UK 32 / US 28 / EU 60

Pattern format

PDF

PDF Printing

5 pages

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