Big Vintage Sewalong B5209

Big Vintage Sewalong B5209

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It’s been an amazing year of vintage makes as part of the Big Vintage sew-along blogger tour and in this last week it’s my turn, no pressure then! If you want to find out more about The BIG Vintage sew-along then why not read our post and find out how you can get involved, all in aid of The Eve Appeal charity. We have added a list of everyone who took part in the tour this year at the end of the post so you can see all the fantastic makes!

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The 1940s is my favourite vintage fashion era so I decided to make the Butterick B5209, which comes with two options – halter neck or cap sleeves. I don’t think a halter neck would suit me so I opted to make the cap sleeve version below. The dress has a side seam zipper, is self lined and has a gathered skirt. I was quite indulgence and chose a viscose/rayon fabric from Fabric Godmother called Pixy Rose. It has an amazing digital print and lovely soft drape (unfortunately now sold out).

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I lined the bodice with a soft pale pink cotton voile but didn’t line the skirt as I didn’t think it really needed it. I spent quite a alot of time fitting the bodice as it’s not the easiest design to do a full bust adjustment (FBA). After making a couple of toiles I finally got there and decided to make the lining extra special by self facing around the collar and cap sleeves.

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To do this I traced the bodice pieces and then measured 4cm + 1.5 cm (seam allowance) from the neckline edge all the way around the neckline. After cutting off 5.5cm from the pattern pieces, I added a 1.5cm seam allowance to both the 5.5cm self facing piece and lower lining piece (made from pink cotton voile). This would later allow me to create a seam to join the two and producing complete lining pieces for the bodice.

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I really like the finish this has given the dress and there is no risk of the plain pale cotton voile peaking out (particularly around the back of the neck).

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The only other tricky bit was the shaping at the back neckline, I didn’t get it right first time and had to unpick it – this did not go well. You know when you unpick and then it distorts the fabric and it’s never quite the same again!? I did my best to save it and in the end reduced the amount of curve and i’m now happy with it, phew (although it’s not quite symmetrical!)

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I really enjoyed making this pattern and in a modern print such as the Pixy Rose, you wouldn’t really know it was from the 1940s. Equally it could be style up with accessories or made in a plain fabric, which I think would give it a much more vintage feel.

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Although I didn’t quite get the fabric print placement right on the bust pattern pieces, i’m so happy with the back print position and the centre front!

I’d happily make this pattern again as I really like the style detail. Due to the bodice design there was quite a lot of under stitching so took quite a bit of time but this did give a professional finish. The side seam zip works well, as if it was at the centre back I think it would spoilt the style. It’s positioned a little bit lower under the armhole than other patterns i’ve used and this makes it much more comfortable to wear. Next time I might add pockets!

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Thank you to The McCall Pattern Company UK for providing the pattern and fabric allowance. All views my own.

Round up of the blogger tour

1. Friday 11th March – Katie from What Katie Sews

2. Friday 25th March – Portia from Makery

3. Friday 8th April – Kate from The Fold Line

4. Friday 15th April – Amy from Almond Rock

5. Friday 29th April – Elisalex from By Hand London

6. Friday 13th May – Jane from Handmade Jane

7. Friday 27th May –  Jen from The Gingerthread Girl

8. Friday 10th June – Lisa from Sew Over It 

9. Friday 24th June – Janene from Ooobop

10. Friday 8th July –  Marie from A Stitching Odyssey

11. Friday 15th July –  Kerry from Kestrel Makes

12. Friday 22nd July – Fiona from Diary of a Chainstitcher

13. Friday 29th July – Karen from Did You Make That?

14. Friday 5th August – Laura from Sew For Victory

15. Friday 12th August – Nina from Thumble Nina

16. Friday 19th August – Charlotte from English Girl at Home

17. Friday 26th August – Gabby from Gabberdashery

18. Friday 2nd September – Rachel from House of Pinheiro

19. Friday 9th September – Elena from Randomly Happy

20. Friday 16th September – Wendy Gardiner for Butterick

21. Friday 23rd September – Winnie from Scruffy Badger Time

22. Friday 30th September  – Rachel from The Fold Line

The Sew Reporter – 25th September

The Sew Reporter – 25th September

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Yesterday we started a new blog series, My Signature Pattern Style – check out our first post with Katrina here. We also shared a video of our trip to the Handmade Fair. There are loads of lovely makes from your favourite bloggers, new sewing patterns and lots of other inspiring stuff so pick your beverage of choice, sit back and enjoy the sewing Sunday papers..

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Meet Sheryll, a designer and pattern maker from New Zealand who blogs at Pattern.Scissors.Cloth. She initially trained as a radiography before studying fashion in Auckland and discovering pattern-making. Her most recent make is the Sewaholic Fraser sweatshirt.  You can follow Sheryll on The Fold Line @sheryllstuart

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New Autumn/Winter Collections from VogueMcCallsButterickKwik SewSimplicityNew Look and Burdastyle.

Check out the latest pattern releases here or a round up of pattern releases from last month from Fiona at Diary of a Chainstitcher @diaryofachainstitcher.

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Sew Up North sewing meet up event

Check out our Social Calendar for the latest sewing meet-ups, textile and fashion exhibitions, jobs and craft fairs.

Local meet-ups regularly organised in the UK for BristolCentral LondonWalthamstow (North London), CambridgeBirmingham and Norwich.

September 2016

1920s JAZZ AGE Fashion and Photographs, Fashion and Textile Museum, London. 23rd September 2016 – 15th January 2017.

Scottish Quilt show, Edinburgh, 23rd – 25th September.

The Fashion of Film, Fashion and Textile Museum, London, 29th September.

Textiles: Ancient to Modern, V&A Museum, London. 22nd September 2016 – 13th July 2017.

Kent quilt festival, Kent, 30th – 1st October.

Tag events or blogs you’ve discovered this week with #sewreporter

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book review rosie martin no patterns needed

My Signature Pattern Style with Katrina

My Signature Pattern Style with Katrina

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Today we bring you a new blog series about pattern style. We have asked members of The Fold Line sewing community to share their pattern style with you all. It’s often hard to know whether a dressmaking pattern will suit you or not. We hope that in these posts you will find a fellow sewist with a similar body shape or style and discover new sewing patterns for your handmade wardrobe.

First up we have Katrina (follow her on The Fold Line @offsquare), who is a freelance writer living in New Zealand and also part of the Papercut Patterns team. Katrina blogs about her sewing adventures at Off Square. Let’s find out about her signature pattern style …

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1. How would you describe your style?

Maybe relaxed sophistication? I live in a small town where the dress code is very casual, but I’ve always loved suits and tailored garments, so my style usually is a blend of those two worlds. Think jeans and a blazer or a t-shirt dress with heels. It’s toned down structure.

2. How would you describe your body shape and how does that influence what patterns you pick?

Rectangle/Athletic/Boyish. For a long time I used to try create shape and work around the parts of me I didn’t like. Now that I’m older and perhaps wiser, I prefer to cater to the parts I love instead. It’s about celebrating your assets rather than focussing on the things you wish you could change and I like that positive approach. I love my sway back, so I do lean towards patterns that can follow that curve or crop at the hips. But the rebellious part of me likes to experiment with different silhouettes and break the rules occasionally. The Inari Dress was like that for me and I love it! In saying that, I have worked out that wrap dresses aren’t ideal. I won’t rule them out completely, but they look phenomenal on more well-endowed women.

3. What are the top three sewing patterns that suit your style/ shape and why? 

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I’ve always loved the Sigma Dress by Papercut Patterns. Anything with a waist seam is good and the slight waist gathers help create shape if you want it. The high neckline is flattering for a small bust and the seamlines are perfect for a good swayback adjustment. I adore how this dress hugs my shape! Find out more about the Sigma dress here.

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The Inari Dress/Tee by Named Clothing. I love the shape of a cropped top that finishes at the hips, but skims the bust. Especially paired with skinny jeans. I don’t know why it works, but maybe the eye just imagines a curve in there. With the dress, I did take all the cocoon shape out of the hips when I made it so that it was more like a rectangle. It’s more boxy than my usual silhouettes, but the short length and front leaning slits balance that out well (I tend to go short with loose fitting dresses). The Inari Dress is also great for days when you don’t want something on the waist or food heavy days like Christmas ?. Find out more about the Inari Dress and Tee here.

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The Ella Top by Liola Patterns is another great one. The racerback widens the shoulders and I like the loose fit past the belly. I’ll often wear it slightly tucked in at the front because long tops often feel less frumpy that way. I guess it’s a nod to that cropped shape again. I love the slimming lines of this top and it’s a quick make too, which is an added bonus. Find out more about the Ella top here.

4. What are you planning to make next…?

I’m about to attempt some bra making, but the Centauree dress by Deer & Doe is high on the list. I love the interesting seamlines but the overall shape looks cute too.

Read more about Katrina’a style on her blog Off Square and follow here on Facebook and Instagram.

The Sew Reporter – 18th September

The Sew Reporter – 18th September

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Yesterday we posted about a new sewing subscription box. For a video tour of the box head here. Loads of lovely makes from your favourite bloggers, new sewing patterns and loads of other inspiring stuff so pick your beverage of choice, sit back and enjoy the sewing Sunday papers..

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Meet Rachel a science graduate who blogs at Basic Stitch! She is a lady of many talents and her makes span quilting, knitting, cross stitch as well as dressmaking. She has recently been pattern testing for Itch to Stitch and you can see her make of the Bonn shirt here.  You can follow Rachel on The Fold Line @basicstitch

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  • Love this post from Handmade Jane – she is sharing her One Week One Pattern challenge..
  • So Zo is back making for her nipper this week and it’s all about the pirates.. pass the eye patch

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  • Colette have inspired my next read with this post on The Measure of a Man (has anyone read it?) Their new pattern, the Rue dress, was released last week, there’s help with choosing the fabric and also see some of the Rue’s out in the wild!
  • Lladybird has been clacking her needles this week and finished a pair of Sea Wall socks – our thoughts are with her at the moment and wish her father a speedy recovery.
  • A very handy video from Jennifer Lauren Vintage about adjusting the neckline on her Gable top  – but this could be applied to lots of knit patterns!
  • Gahh Idle fancy has us weak at the knees for her latest make of the B5978

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Helmi tunic dress Named Clothing

New Summer Collections from VogueMcCallsButterickKwik SewSimplicityNew Look and Burdastyle.

Check out the latest pattern releases here or a round up of pattern releases from last month from Fiona at Diary of a Chainstitcher @diaryofachainstitcher.

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Sew Up North sewing meet up event

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Check out our Social Calendar for the latest sewing meet-ups, textile and fashion exhibitions, jobs and craft fairs.

Local meet-ups regularly organised in the UK for BristolCentral LondonWalthamstow (North London), CambridgeBirmingham and Norwich.

September 2016

 

1920s JAZZ AGE Fashion and Photographs, Fashion and Textile Museum, London. 23rd September 2016 – 15th January 2017.

Scottish Quilt show, Edinburgh, 23rd – 25th September.

#SewBrum meet up, Birmingham, 24th September.

Thread Festival, Farnham Maltings, Surrey. 24th September.

The Fashion of Film, Fashion and Textile Museum, London, 29th September.

Textiles: Ancient to Modern, V&A Museum, London. 22nd September 2016 – 13th July 2017.

Kent quilt festival, Kent, 30th – 1st October.

Tag events or blogs you’ve discovered this week with #sewreporter

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book review rosie martin no patterns needed

Sewing Subscription Boxes

Sewing Subscription Boxes

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This week we have teamed up with Sew Hayley Jane to bring you a sneak peak of her new sewing subscription boxes, which launched this week. She has very kindly sent us a box so that we could get a feel of the fabric and discover all the other goodies included. We have shared a few sneak peak shots of the boxes below. Don’t forget to check out our video too!

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This is the medium sized box, it comes with 2.5m of fabric, four fat quarters and some lovely notions and haberdashery. There are three different sized boxes that are themed each month. This month the theme is English country gardens – so lots of lovely florals! What we really like about this idea is that getting some happy mail each month might stop us binge ordering fabric!

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The Sew Reporter – 11th September

The Sew Reporter – 11th September

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Yesterday we posted a tour of our sewing rooms so go and have a nosey around our sewing spaces. There have been lots of great blogger makes this week so sit back, grab a cup of tea and get stuck into the sewing Sunday papers…

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Catia is Portuguese but now lives in The Netherlands, blogging at The Petite Cat. Caria loves fashion and making her own outfits. You will also find posts about food, lifestyle, beauty and DIY. Check out Catia’s recent make – an off the shoulder top. You can follow Catia on The Fold Line @thepetitecat

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  • Fiona at Diary of a Chainstitcher makes a black linen alder shirtdress.
  • Karen at Did You Make That? has caught the adult colouring book bug and reviews the new offering from William Morris.
  • It’s your makes galore at Tilly and the Buttons with plenty of you hacking the patterns to make them your own.
  • Winnie is on holiday with her new Vogue 1085 top, check out the print detail on this fabric!
  • Zoe of So, Zo posts podcast #4 Sewing vs. Kids and talks about a new maternity pattern she is going to release and sewing for your family.

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Tuulli v neck bodysuit Named Clothing
Lempi button down dress Named Clothing
Helmi tunic dress Named Clothing

New Summer Collections from VogueMcCallsButterickKwik SewSimplicityNew Look and Burdastyle.

Check out the latest pattern releases here or a round up of pattern releases from last month from Fiona at Diary of a Chainstitcher @diaryofachainstitcher.

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Sew Up North sewing meet up event

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Check out our Social Calendar for the latest sewing meet-ups, textile and fashion exhibitions, jobs and craft fairs.

Local meet-ups regularly organised in the UK for BristolCentral LondonWalthamstow (North London), CambridgeBirmingham and Norwich.

September 2016

Blogging Masterclass: Design and Typography, V&A Museum, London. 3rd September.

Great Northern Quilt show, Harrogate, 2nd – 4th September.

Beyond Measure Open day, Todmorden (17 miles from Manchester) 10th September

One Week One Pattern (OWOP) 10-16th September online with I am Cinderellis

1920s JAZZ AGE Fashion and Photographs, Fashion and Textile Museum, London. 23rd September 2016 – 15th January 2017.

Scottish Quilt show, Edinburgh, 23rd – 25th September.

#SewBrum meet up, Birmingham, 24th September.

Thread Festival, Farnham Maltings, Surrey. 24th September.

The Fashion of Film, Fashion and Textile Museum, London, 29th September.

Textiles: Ancient to Modern, V&A Museum, London. 22nd September 2016 – 13th July 2017.

Kent quilt festival, Kent, 30th – 1st October.

Tag events or blogs you’ve discovered this week with #sewreporter

sew reporter 10

book review rosie martin no patterns needed

The Sew Reporter – 4th September

The Sew Reporter – 4th September

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Yesterday we shared the new pattern releases for August, go check them out! It’s not been the busiest month for pattern releases but there are still some goodies. This week though, my goodness, there have been over a dozen releases, so next month will be bumper! There have been lots of great blogger makes this week so sit back, grab a cup of tea and get stuck into the sewing Sunday papers…

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Mousie Makes Hannah Murray sewing blogger

Hannah blogs at Mousie Makes and after receiving a sewing machine for her 21st birthday and discovering indie designers got hooked on the sewing bug. Hannah’s passion for the handmade also now includes food so her blog is a mixed of both. Check out Hannah’s recent make – Marilla Walker’s Robert’s Collection dungarees. You can follow Hannah on The Fold Line @mousiemakes

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Charlotte English Girl at Home Butterick 70s dress

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Aava tailored blazer Named Clothing
Tuulli v neck bodysuit Named Clothing
Lempi button down dress Named Clothing

Helmi tunic dress Named Clothing
Charlie dress Designer Stitch
Port Trousers Named Clothing

New Summer Collections from VogueMcCallsButterickKwik SewSimplicityNew Look and Burdastyle.

Check out the latest pattern releases here or a round up of pattern releases from last month from Fiona at Diary of a Chainstitcher @diaryofachainstitcher.

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Sew Up North sewing meet up event

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Check out our Social Calendar for the latest sewing meet-ups, textile and fashion exhibitions, jobs and craft fairs.

Local meet-ups regularly organised in the UK for BristolCentral LondonWalthamstow (North London), CambridgeBirmingham and Norwich.

September 2016

Blogging Masterclass: Design and Typography, V&A Museum, London. 3rd September.

Great Northern Quilt show, Harrogate, 2nd – 4th September.

Beyond Measure Open day, Todmorden (17 miles from Manchester) 10th September

One Week One Pattern (OWOP) 10-16th September online with I am Cinderellis

1920s JAZZ AGE Fashion and Photographs, Fashion and Textile Museum, London. 23rd September 2016 – 15th January 2017.

Scottish Quilt show, Edinburgh, 23rd – 25th September.

#SewBrum meet up, Birmingham, 24th September.

Thread Festival, Farnham Maltings, Surrey. 24th September.

The Fashion of Film, Fashion and Textile Museum, London, 29th September.

Textiles: Ancient to Modern, V&A Museum, London. 22nd September 2016 – 13th July 2017.

Kent quilt festival, Kent, 30th – 1st October.

Tag events or blogs you’ve discovered this week with #sewreporter

sew reporter 10

book review rosie martin no patterns needed

The sewing pattern round-up – August

The sewing pattern round-up – August

NEW SEWING PATTERN ROUNDUP

It’s been another quieter month of new pattern releases with around 20 new sewing patterns. September is set to be a bumper month though with over a dozen releases we already know about in the first week! Keeping track of all the new pattern releases can be tough so we’ve put together a bitesized round up for August with the lovely Fiona of Diary of a Chainstitcher blog @diaryofachainstitcher. Fiona has a great sewing blog where she showcases her makes with really useful and detailed reviews of each pattern. She has kindly given us her top three releases for August and why she likes the patterns so much.

We have also made another video where Kate has chatted through some of our favourite new pattern releases from August.

We’ve also included some other new releases we’ve added to the site with links to check out the sewing pattern reviews or post your own.

Fiona’s top three dressmaking pattern releases for August

Wear Lemonade – India Jumpsuit

India jumpsuit Wear Lemonade

“Wear Lemonade have knocked it out of the park again with their new India Jumpsuit. There is something so fresh about each and every one of their designs. It’s got long sleeves, tapered legs, a wrap front and rear patch pockets. The sample that they’ve sewn up in dark denim has a fashionable urban utilitarian feel to it that I’m really drawn to.”

Sew House Seven – Nehalem Pant and Skirt

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“If you’re looking for something a little different to try but still a satisfyingly straightforward project you might want to take a look at the new Nehalem Pant & Skirt pattern from Sew House Seven. The design is based on traditional Thai fisherman’s trousers and all views are loose fitting trousers/skirts that are wrapped and tied at the waist. I love the variety within the samples over on their website and who doesn’t enjoy and garment that is practical yet fashion forward at the same time?!”

Style ARC – Juno Slip dress

Juno slip dress sewing pattern Style ARC

“There are always a couple of patterns each month that I’m tempted to add to my basket and start sewing up straight away. This month it was most definitely the new Juno Slip Dress from Style Arc. It’s bang on trend and has some lovely deign features including angled darts, criss cross rouleau straps and a wrap variation. It’s currently only available as a paper pattern but I have a feeling when the PDF is released in a few weeks time I’m not going to be able to resist.”

Other pattern releases

Megan Nielsen – Harper shorts and skort

Harper shorts and skort Megan Nielsen

Ready to Sew – Jumpy shorts and trousers

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Tessuti Fabrics – Frankie dress and top

Frankie top dress Tessuti Fabrics

Christine Haynes – Rumi tank

Rumi tank Christine Haynes

Deer and Doe – Safran pants

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Wear Lemonade – India jumpsuit

India jumpsuit Wear Lemonade

Maven Patterns – Kitty dress

Kitty dress Maven patterns

Sew Caroline – Magnolia shorts

Magnolia shorts Sew Caroline

Seamwork – Elmira cardigan and Lynn dress

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Lynn Seamwork2

Style ARC – Jema panel dress, Cold shoulder knit top, Amanda stretch shorts and Stevie jean jacket

Jema panel dress sewing pattern

Cold shoulder knit top Style ARC

Amanda stretch short Style ARC

Stevie Jean jacket Style ARC

Jennifer Lauren – Gable top

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Itch to Stitch – Belize shorts and skort

Belize shorts and skort Style ARC

Made by Rae – Gemma tank

Gemma tank Made by Rae

Sew This Pattern – Birdie bomber jacket

Birdie bomber jacket Style ARC

Hot Patterns – Bellissima biker jacket

Bellissimo biker jacket Style ARC