Lovely skirt – Merchant & Mills

I love this skirt. The overlaid pleats and button details give it real elegance. I made my trial version in brushed cotton and didn’t get the small checks quite in line. The pattern is easy to follow although see my notes below about the waistbands. 

To avoid dealing with so much bulk, it’s completely possible to make the skirt in reverse order, finishing with the long side seams. First, I folded the pleats on each separate piece. The order (1 to 4) is given. Two pleats are marked with notches and two with tailor tacks. Each has a direction; the second goes the opposite way to the other three and is overlaid by the third making part of the top of the skirt quite thick. You need to fix the pleats with machine basting or industrial strength tacking and make sure they are lined up exactly.

I then did all the work on the pockets. I loved the nifty French seam on the bags. There is a facing on the back of the skirt and all the rest is joined to the front of the skirt. Lining the pieces up and matching the facings required accuracy and attention to seam detail. There is a reinforced tack with a slit which appears numerous times and all must be matched. Lots of tacks to come out at the end. I kept finding them!

I attached the waistbands with the front and back still separate. I did find the waistbands a bit short and, at this stage, went back and redid the pleats. Even so I had to take in a bit more than prescribed in order to make the band fit. The front pattern piece does include an extra seam allowance for joining pieces cut on narrower fabric but I’m pretty sure I didn’t include that. I cut a size 14 which should have been roomy but, with the waistband issue, it came up pretty snug.

I joined the front to the back last, before hemming and making button holes. I was taught to hang a finished garment and hem at the end so stuck with that once front and back were joined.

The skirt hangs really well, moves beautifully and is flattering. (I think so anyway!) On my next make, I shall use the thinnest of thin interlining.