Francine top in heavy weight linen

This was the third Merchant and Mills pattern I made up, and it was tricker than the pattern grading suggested, largely because of the construction of the collar. I misread the instruction (basically didn’t read them properly….) and sewed the front facing on first rather than just staystitching and cutting the front opening.

The collar construction is interesting and not difficult but you really have to read every step properly. I didn’t interface the collar as my fabric is heavy (the instructions don’t include it but I would probably interface any fabric that isn’t very stiff already).

I was surprised that the collar wasn’t sewn together, I am pretty sure the seam allowances will move and rumple after washing, so I sewed through the join between collar and body, which is invisible and holds the collar together.

The instructions do need careful reading, and are not always entirely clear. The side splits were not entirely clear to follow.

I have read several reviews on M&M patterns being large but have found all true to size. This is quite a slim fit design, so if you need any adjustments for eg a full bust, high round back, then make them to ensure the top hangs well at the front. Despite matching the body measurements perfectly and not having a full bust, I find the top “tents” a bit at the front. I will try a high round back adjustment next time or even add some bust darts to prevent the tent effect. I’m 5’8″ and could probably do with another inch of length so will add that next time. As suggested by another reviewer, I will also lower the button on the front opening slightly.

Overall, it looks much nicer in real life then any photo suggests, and I will definitely make more.