I AM Patterns Sirius Jumper

Pattern: Sirius by I AM patterns

Fabric: 1.5mt broadcloth and 0.5 m of organza

Notions: 1 button (I used 2)

Sewing time: in total approx 3.5h (including tracing the pattern)

Modifications: I made a straight size 40. shortened the bodice by 1.2 cm which in hindsight might have been too much.

Fit: good. Feel that the bust darts are now too high, though the shoulder to apex measurement is correct on the modified pattern. The sleeves look longer on because I did not shorten them more than 1.2 cm.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?: yes

Watch out for: take your time to understand how the back pleats get inserted into the back bodice. If using organza for the back pleats, as the fabric is sliding a lot you need to take your time to work with the fabric and set the pleats in. I suggest you hem your piece before you start working on this piece (this step is missed in the instructions).

Make Again?: Yes. I am considering making a version short sleeve, even one without sleeves.

For more details and pictures, please Click Here

Sirius is a sweater top with a straight collar and an interesting pleated detail at the back. It comes in French sizes 36 to 46, which correspond approximately the standard European 34 to 44. I chose the size 38 which turned out to be a pretty good fit.

The main fabric for this top is meant to be wool, for example boiled or felted wool, or then sweatshirting. The pleated part is then made in lightweight fabric such as organza, voile or lace. I had this off-white ribbed sweatshirting in my stash so I decided to use it. For the pleated part I used a piece of white polyester. Oh, and I made the facing of the collar out of white jersey, since I run out of sweatshirting fabric that I only had about 1 m piece.

The mosts of the top was quite easy to make. I had some difficulties in getting the buttoning placket instructions but I finally managed to make it. To be honest, I usually don't have patience to properly read the instructions. I rather skim through them and figure out the rest by trial and error. I read somewhere online that using a mixture of water and vinegar when ironing helps to keep the pleats in place, so I spritzed the pleated part with a mixture of 1/3 of vinegar and 2/3 of water when ironing in the pleats.

If you make this top out of very stretchy sweatshirting like I did, prepare to add more support to the shoulder seams. Mine stretched already when I sewed them, so I added some clear elastic that I sewed onto the seam allowances to keep the shoulder seams from stretching. I also had to take in from the shoulders a bit due to my stretchy fabric.

I like the outcome. The top drapes nicely and the back is certainly eye catching. Check out my blog for more details!