Ready to Sew James Sailor Jacket

James sailor Jacket
Being a sailor, I thought I would make this because it’s been too wet and windy actually to go sailing. I would call it a smock as I see they do on the Ready to Sew website. Having read the notes in the pattern and the reviews here, I toiled the body top. I needed size 40 which is only two down from the largest provided. I’m rtw UK 12-14.
The French instructions have been indifferently translated into English with typographical and punctuation errors remaining. However, they are easy enough to follow. There is a “sew along”, with photos, on the website.
I lengthened the neck opening so that I could easily put the smock on whilst wearing my glasses. This also meant lengthening and grading the front facing. I lengthened the body by 2.5cm as I am more than average tall.
I made the smock in a stout, pre-washed calico. It’s on the light side and will be worn over something else. Thicker fabric would cause some very heavy seams where they cross over but could be managed with bigger needles etc.
There is a choice of a pouch or a side pocket. I chose to make two side pockets and place them so that they were anchored in the side seams. I also made them only one thickness, turned in at the edges and bound inside the top. I dispensed with the small top inside pocket as couldn’t see the point. Considered adding a larger one on the outside the same shape as the others but wasn’t sure what I would put in it.
There is a range of seam allowances depending on whether French seaming is required. I tried to remember to lengthen stitches when top stitching and return them to standard afterwards and also to re-centre the needle. I need to put a post-it note on my machine!
The bottom of the neck opening is an area of high risk with a slight margin between a clean finish and disaster. I practised it on offcuts before finally sewing, slashing and top stitching on the actual garment.
I finished the facings as well as the hem with contrasting self binding. I did wonder whether to interface the collar. It’s a bit floppy.
This is a good, utilitarian design. I hope to go sailing in it soon and I expect I may eventually dye it a darker colour.

I made this James out of a cotton/linen blend.  It's a bit lightweight, but it was super easy to work with.  I used the instructions with the pattern and the sewalong on the Ready to Sew website, and I didn't have any trouble.  I too thought the facing was awkward, but I got it done.

Like the other review mentions, the head hole is small.  I can get my head through it, but I have to take my glasses off.  I also went up a couple sizes and made a 38, but for my next one, I will go up one more size.

The shirt is awesome.  I chose to do a side pocket on this one, and I don't like it near as much as I thought I would.  I plan to make another out of a heavier linen.

I’d ordered this pattern a while ago but forgot about it! Then, while browsing the Fold Line for inspiration I stumbled across it and realized it would be perfect for a length of Merchant and Mills Ivory denim I had.

The PDF was different compared to other patterns I’ve used, as it indicated the sizes using colour, rather than numbering. Regarding the sizes, beware! Make sure you check the size table before choosing which size you use. I would normally choose 34 but as this is (I think) a French pattern, originally, I remembered that for French sizes you need to add 2 to the usual number  you take in Swiss/German sizing. So I took 36 and was glad I did.

Sometimes the instructions were a bit difficult to follow but I muddled through. The collar was quite awkward to attach, as at this stage the neck opening had not been slashed.  Regarding the neck opening, I’d recommend to check you can get your head through before sewing down the facing in case you need to add a few centimetres as it’s a bit tight (and I have a small head). I also chose to attach the sleeves differently by doing this before the side seams and doing a double row of top-stitching. Then I sewed the side seam and sleeve seams in one go, and zigzagged them rather than using French seams.

Using a heavy denim was hard work, and I worried that sewing the collar and facing would be too much for my machine, but it was fine and well worth the effort. I will make this again, but will try a softer cotton which will be easier to handle.