Helen's Closet Gilbert Top

I’m so pleased I revisited this pattern, Helen’s Closet Gilbert Top, in time for a holiday

I made my previous 2 sleeveless Gilberts a couple of years ago. I was using iron on interfacing at the time and the collars, especially visible on the white one, went bobbly and I couldn’t wear it anymore. Such a shame with all that work!!

This is my new white cotton lawn replacement. An exact replica .

I used Helen’s Closet sleeveless hack again and the previously adjusted pattern pieces. It was a really useful blog post and something I’ll use again when converting sleeved to sleeveless.

My new stripped one is a viscose blend.

The instructions for the pattern and the sleeveless hack are impeccable. The sleeveless hack especially, explains why she does certain things. So you gain knowledge among the way.

All the size and fit details are in my blog post here

This is the first time I have ever sewn a Helen's Closet pattern. I found the instructions very clear and the diagrams helpful. I absolutely love this version of the Gilbert Top, and I already have plans to sew a short sleeve version. And, next I will try the version with the tie detail. It's a definite win.                                                                                      The size range is very inclusive. I found a straight size 14 fit me well. The pattern is well drafted. I will definitely try some of their other patterns. I highly recommend Helen's Closet patterns.

I bought the Gilbert Top by Helen's Closet towards the end of summer last year. I made view A (shorter length and tie waist) as I thought it would look more retro in my 50's inspired fabric - from my shop Bornella Fabrics. It's a linen/viscose blend. I didn't make any alterations and I'm really happy with the fit (which is relaxed fit anyway). It really is a fantastic pattern - here are the main reasons I like it:

,Instructions - Helen writes fantastic instructions. If you're a novice sewist or tackling a technique that you haven't come across before then these instructions are for you - they will hold your hand to see you through.
,Brilliant drafting - the shirt is really well drafted and constructed. I have made a lot of set in sleeves over the last few years and these are the ONLY ones which are perfect first time.
, 
,Neatness of the finish - I find if a garment is a mess on the inside then you don't feel quite so special in it. Well this shirt is like the Mona Lisa on the inside - it's a work of art. I cannot believe how neat it is with almost no extra effort, and a lot of that comes down to the excellent drafting. Everything is enclosed neatly - the placket, the collar, the yoke and the instructions are clear so you can achieve a great finish.
,. 
,No overlocker needed - this would be ideal for anyone who doesn't have access to an overlocker. The only exposed seams in the garment are the side seams and armhole. I french seamed the side seams as there is a generous seam allowance, and bias-bound the armholes for a neat finish. Tricky but worth the effort.

The ONE thing about the pattern I didn't like:

,When you make the collar, you need to topstitch around the outside (once the collar piece is finished). However once the shirt is constructed then you stitch along the entire front edge, pivoting at the collar, continuing along the collar and then down the other side of the shirt. So you end up with two lines of stitching in the same place - and it's obvious if your second line of stitching isn't in exactly the same spot as the first. Next time I'll hold off topstitching the collar and wait until I topstitch the whole shirt, so I don't have this problem.

So all in all, I really rate this shirt. I feel like I'm wearing something really expensive. I am struggling not to go around showing people the neat insides...  ahhhh the joys of being a sewist!

Happy sewing,

Tanya xx

@bornellafabrics

This is my first Gilbert Top - a lovely pattern, with top notch instructions as always from Helen’s Closet, which I was thrilled to receive as a lovely prize in an Instagram challenge. I love the open collar and those little ties on this version of the pattern.
A few details:

,I cut a size 16 from the sizes 12 - 30 (D cup) option with my usual high round back adjustment and a full bicep adjustment.
,Lengthened sleeve 1” as a personal preference.
,Fabric is a Robert Kaufman cotton chambray which had been imprisoned in my stash just waiting for the right pattern to come along - it was a lovely sew and feels so light and airy to wear.

I can see this pattern becoming a staple when it’s warm enough in Scotland to get the arms out! ?
Thanks for reading ?

I followed the sleeveless hack on the Helens Closet blog which was brilliant. I never would have achieved such success without it. I had no idea about the changes to the armscye that were needed so that it didn’t look like you’d just chopped the arms off.

Helen also advised to size down, as you need less room to maintain movement when you have no sleeves. The advice was spot on.

I choose to include 2 pockets on both shirts, the pattern only uses one, so you couldn’t see my bra through the light weight fabrics.

My measurements put me at a size 12, so I sized down to a size 10. I used the ‘B’ cup pattern.

There's more details on my blog