Wonderful, Japanese-y jacket pattern

Reviewed by nicolab on 13th November, 2018

This pattern comes with two options: option B is a simple unlined jacket and option A is a lined coat. I did a jacket-length version of option A. I used some heavy and fairly stiff silk from Fabric Godmother that suits both the Japanese-y aesthetic and the structure of the design. I made a toile to check the fit – I’d already graded between sizes 4 and 5 at the hips, and made the following adjustments: took 2cm out of the CB and added 1 cm to the side seam at the hips, tapering up to the armscye (I have a narrow back/shoulders); I scooped the armscye by 1cm and added 1 cm width to the arms, tapering down to the elbow (I have fairly big arms); shortened the arms by 2 inches but left the length of the body as per pattern. I interlined the silk with muslin and used sew-in interfacing (apart from the seaming, pretty much everything is done by hand), and I lined the pockets by interlining the front and back pocket pieces with lining fabric (this step isn’t in the pattern). The pockets are a tiny bit tricky if you’ve got very fabric, and I used my pressing cloth and clapper A LOT! Otherwise it went together really nicely and Marilla’s instructions are excellent. It took me four weeks to do all the prep and a week to make up and finish the garment. I used Bremsilk for the lining, which is easy to work with and feels lovely. I can never be bothered with all the faff of machining it in, so I attached it by hand using fell-stitch. I’m really pleased with this jacket. I looked at jacket patterns for ages before deciding and this is really unusual – there’s nothing like it out there. I’d really recommend it, especially for anyone wanting to try out a bit of tailoring. The instructions are brilliant and Marilla Walker’s design and drafting is superb.