Tight squeeze – Untitled Thoughts

Let’s just remember that Brittani aka Untitled Thoughts is a very new designer on the block and by this I mean that Matilda wrap dress was only fourth pattern she released (one of the other three was a beret so should we even count it as dressmaking?). First things first, the fabric suggestions. I’ve searched through the pattern files endlessly and I cannot find any information about how much stretch is required. On the UT website (and the foldline) though there’s a pattern description which suggests knits with 20% stretch, such as stretch velvet. Now… I’m going to just say that if you stick to this advice you’ll end up with a slightly snug dress (to say the least). So either go for more stretch in the fabric or size up. For comparison I’ll just say that my breastfeeding bust size is 35″. I cut out size S, which is supposed to cover bust up to 36″ and I definitely feel unsafe without hook and eye to put it nicely.

No instructions to stabilise the neckline or shoulders. You may get away with it on more stable knits but eventually it may stretch out of shape so I’d highly recommend you to use an iron-on stay tape.
Armhole bindings. If you’ve ever inserted a neck binding you won’t have any difficulty in attaching those, however, if I had it my way, I’d finish the armholes with bias binding method for a much neater result.
Finally, attaching ties to the waist band is a bit odd and could definitely be done in a simpler way with equally neat results.

Here comes the good:
The design. I know I look like I’m about to burst out of the seams in this dress but I still love it. Husband is a fan too and even suggested that this should become my date night dress so… it doesn’t get much better than this.
The instructions. One word: wonderful. If you’re a novice there’s a lovely introduction to sewing knits included at the beginning of the booklet, you’re guided step by step, with clear illustrations, and the construction is simple enough for even the least experienced sewist.
It’s ready in a jiffy. There’s really nothing too fiddly about this dress apart from the waist tie) so there’s nothing stopping you to finish it in less than 3 hours.
My verdict? I totally love it although it’s not a perfect pattern. Sizing is a big issue, but I really believe that this can be easily fixed by Brittani. With few little adjustments it’s an absolute cracker so go and get yourself a copy, size up and enjoy this fantastic dress whilst supporting a very talented new designer.