Fabric:
The fabric I used was a silk (charmeuse I believe but the label only said silk – you can’t expect too much labelling from Portuguese fabric stores). It is shiny and presses well but creases back in a second – that horizontal crease I got from sitting down for 30min prior to taking a picture. It’s the flimsiest thing I ever worked with, I was a tad negligent and cut the fabric the way I usually do, I pin the pattern down and cut around it with shears. But every pin placed displaced the grainline and the result was that the pieces were a bit different from the pattern. I was able to adjust it latter with my rotary cutter but I lost in length and shape of the hem.
Pattern, instructions and alterations:
I like the detail of Sew Over it pattern instructions and layout, I’ve done a few of their patterns and this did not disapoint. I agree with some of the other reviews that the additional strip of bias should be present in the pattern layout and cutting instructions. I have a dedicated fabric bin and was able to go back and find a piece large enough to cut the 4x10cm strip, but some people might not save it. I sewed from the pdf version, and I don’t remember having more paper waste than the needed.
I chose version 2 for my blouse, both versions feature a center seam, which I thought was unaesthetic and unnecessary in version 2. To take it out I folded the front seam allowance and cut on the fold. I constructed most of the shirt using french seams by choice and imposition of the flimsy fabric, I don’t mind, they’re a favorite. For the armscyes I used the overlock stitch on my machine. It has a bit more of hand finishing needed than what I like to do, but I wouldn’t want to topstitch this fabric.
Size and fit:
I was between a 12 and a 14 based on their size chart, but I used a size 12 because, looking at the finished garment measurements, it would have enough ease to fit comfortably. I didn’t made any other alteration than those imposed by my first shoddy attempt at cutting and then having to salvage the pieces. Everything fits just fine, I might make a lower V, but I’m not sure if it got shorter this time because I corrected the pattern cutting, or if it is due to the pattern.
I love how it looks, but I’ll need another bottom to pair it with, or I’ll be limited to this denim skirt. I don’t have any other bottoms with waistlines I’d like to show by wearing it tucked in, and the hem looks a bit gnarly. I would love to try this in another drapey fabric but one not as flimsy as this charmeuse.
Difficulty level:
I agree with the intermediate level, because of the drapey fabrics recomended, the necessary hand finishing, and the possibility of using french seams. But this does not mean a confident beginner wouldn’t be able to tackle it.