Pona Jacket

A review of Helen's Closet Pona Jacket

Reviewed by pinsandneedlesnz on 23rd October, 2021

Now that Autumn has approached here in New Zealand, I feel inspired to sew warmer clothes. I live in Wellington and it’s windy as heck here. Living here, I believe you can never have too many jackets in the wardrobe. I think of jackets like shoes; they can totally change the vibe of an outfit.

For this make, I choose this wool / poly blend from Minerva

On receiving this fabric I knew I had made the right choice as it felt wonderfully soft and has a really good drape to it. I really didn’t want anything too stiff with this chosen project. It’s not a super heavy wool and would almost say it’s more medium weight. I also think this fabric would be fabulous as a duster jacket.

I knew I wanted to make the Pona Jacket by Helens Closet when I requested this fabric. I’ve had this pattern in my collection since it’s release and have wanted to make a plaid jacket in the long version. The pattern includes two options; a short cropped jacket and a long oversized blazer jacket. I’m really digging the oversized blazer look at the moment. I ordered 3 metres as it says in the size chart, but could have got away with 2.5m. I also decided to do the lined jacket hack that Helen has on her blog. I prefer to line wool jackets as can find them a bit itchy against the skin. The jacket hangs better against underlining clothes and I also wanted a little extra wind protection for when those southerlies hit. I used a black acetate as lining that I had in my stash.

Once again Helens Closet’s pattern didn’t disappoint. Her instructions are fantastic. She has this graded as a beginner pattern and I would have to agree. Its one of the most simple / quickest jackets I’ve ever made. Although having my fancy new projector to cut the pattern out definitely helped speed up the process! I cut out a size 2 according to my high bust measurement – if you would like a more oversized jacket look I’d recommend sizing up. My frame doesn’t always pull off the oversized look, so I stuck with this size and I’m pleased I did.

I didn’t have too many hiccups along the way. When using this fabric be mindful of the temperature of the iron. I tested the heat on a small scrap and with the polyester content it melted so changed the heat temperature to it’s lowest setting. I always aim for perfection with my projects, but have to confess I’m not a perfectionist!. I tried so hard while cutting out my fabric to have all my plaid stripes matching. For most of it they are, on a couple of seams they are a little off, but I figure only a perfectionist sewer would notice and I’m ok with that A walking foot would have helped to stop the bulky fabric shifting when sewing the pockets. I don’t have a walking foot so used lots of pins matching up the stripes and this really helped.

I’m so pleased with this make and it has turned out exactly how I envisioned. I will definitely be making this pattern again and can’t wait to try the cropped version. I think by having a few good jackets in the wardrobe, makes me dread winter a little less.

Thanks for reading