Françoise with collar and cuffs

New and updated – I’ve finally got around to making a second version of this dress! My original review is below. This time around I decided to make the version with sleeves and added contrasting collar and cuffs. I used the collar from the Sew Over It Alex shirt instead of the one in the pattern as the Peter Pan look doesn’t suit me very well. I drafted the cuffs myself (full details over on my blog) and they were super simple to add. I still needed to take some of the width out of the sides as the sixties shaping was a little too pronounced for a work outfit, along with some excess at the waist still.

My favourite things about this dress – I got it out of what I had left over from another project. It’s made out of a suiting fabric which I’ve now discovered is absolutely perfect for this dress! It is also a really quick make so very satisfying all round.

This pattern is definitely for beginner sewists who are eager to to make wearable garments; it is easy to sew and there are so many different ways you can vary this pattern with different fabrics.
Fabric
I chose to make this in a sleeveless version as it looked easier for my first go (I hadn’t stitched darts before, let alone tried out sleeves). I used a spot print linen look fabric from Remnant Kings at £3.99 per metre as a wearable toile. This fabric is a heavier weight to what I had used previously, and has the benefit of not being at all see through (so doesn’t need lining). The fabric is fairly stiff, which means that it holds the shape of the dress well, but it is not very soft against the skin.

Pattern and Instructions
The pattern comes on paper sheets, which need tracing off first. Tilly has her own sizing format, I fit the size 4 measurements. I have to say this was a super easy pattern to cut and sew. It would take most people a very short time as there are not a lot of elements to it, and once you have the hang of darts and zips you pretty much have it covered! The step by step booklet is very clear and detailed. It includes lots of helpful tips as well as layplans and photographs at each stage so you know exactly what it should look like. I did supplement the instructions with the Francoise sewalong on Tilly’s blog (all the required links are in the archives for November and December 2014). If you are a beginner attempting new techniques I recommend using this too as it has just that bit more detail than the booklet. If you can already insert invisible zips and sew darts you probably don’t need it.

Alterations
My measurements are an exact match for Tilly’s size 4, so I used this size. Once the dress was made I found that it was a little big around the waist and at the back of the neck. Having spent a lot of time and effort on the zip already I really didn’t want to mess around with this, so I had a play with the side seams instead. I pinned the side seams about 1 cm at the waist, and this looked good enough so went ahead and stitched. This is the second of Tilly’s patterns that I have taken in at the waist to fit better, even though my measurements match so I think this is something I will consider in future makes (I’m a 5ft UK 10 if you are wondering).

I did actually wear this on holiday around and about as it was quite cool and comfortable. Though the fabric holds the shape of the dress really well it does rub a bit under the arm holes, and is a bit too stiff to be really comfortable.
I like how simple this was to put together, and having looked at the Pinterest board have a lot of ideas on how to vary the pattern and use different fabrics. Now that I have made one I have a good idea of the alterations I will need to make next time too. I would really like to make a version with contrasting sleeves, or try a knit fabric for winter.
I would definitely recommend this pattern, especially for beginners.