Dream pattern

A review of Merchant & Mills The September Coat

Reviewed by Ann on 12th September, 2021

This coat reminded me of a Vogue Patterns Dior coat I made as a began university in the 70s, but with a straighter silhouette and lovely detailing on the pockets etc. I was very excited to make it, because there were fiddly details like top stitching that were very satisfying to get right, while the actual sewing up of the garment was pretty straight forward.

I am usually a 10 or 12 in Merchant & Mills patterns (12 in Evie trousers, 10 in 101, 10 in Box Box dress and 12 in Ottoline jacket). Since it said it was an oversized design I chose size 10 for a linen duster coat, but it’s still so roomy the next version I am making (in Harris Tweed) is a size 8. But I love the style, and it hangs nicely in linen. I excluded the side seam pockets, since the patch pockets seemed enough, and I always fear pockets in the side seams may ruin the clean line. I also slightly shortened the sleeves (Unusual for me. In some pattern brands I usually need to lengthen.) I made the unlined version, thinking I can add a lining later if it seems to need it, but as a light, trans-seasonal coat, I think it may be too heavy lined. I am definitely lining the Harris Tweed version though. That is running up nicely, and because it is in a houndstooth check it requires matching the lines of back and white to get it looking as professional as possible, but the lines are a great guide to making sure everything is correctly aligned. Because of the thickness of the material I am not even attempting two rows of top stitching  and sticking to one.

I so looked forward to this pattern being released, and like the Evie, Ottoline and Box Box, am sure I will make it several times in different fabrics.