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DIFFICULTY:
Advanced Beginner
FABRIC USED:
Unknown
SEWING TIME:
All day

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I made View B from the pattern – straight legged with no bib. Looking at the sizes and finished sizes and also taking measurements from the pattern I cut a size 10 and decided not to add the belt loops to this as I find I don’t really use them on smart trousers.

The fabric I used was a cheap unknown from a shop where I live in Oman and I would say it’s a medium weight, slightly looser weave and with a considerable amount of stretch – I will come to the stretch element later in the review! It was around £3 a metre, I had 2 metres but managed to get the pattern pieces out of a metre which makes this a great stash buster pattern for me. I am 5’1” so if you are taller and /or cut a larger size you will probably need more fabric. I also chose to draft my own back pocket pattern – mainly because the one provided didn’t fit onto the scraps I had left and I really didn’t want to cut into the remaining metre.

The overall instructions are pretty straightforward and easy to follow.

However, the fabric turned out to be a LOT stretchier than I initially realised and I ended up taking a lot in at the side seams from the hip down to the bottom of the legs and if I had wanted them to be skin-tight I could have taken them in more.

I used a decorative stitch on the back pockets and as the fabric frayed terribly I lined the front pockets first (using the true bias Lander Pants instructions to do that) and then sewed them on to the trouser fronts. In hindsight, as the lining is black and white I wish I had used a white topstitch on the back pockets or not bothered at all.

I also omitted the faux fly on the front as I didn’t see the point of adding this in.

I messed up the waistband – I’ve done this with a few other patterns too (give me buttonholes or zips any day). I ended up with the zip on the opposite side to the pattern and then rather than apply the waistband regardless of notches etc I matched them up which meant the waistband overlapped the wrong way at the zip. I ended up cutting the overlap down as I couldn’t face unpicking and sewed on hook and eyes instead.

I also had to make an adjustment to the front crotch seam (I used the Jeans Fittng E-Book from Closet Case Patterns to find the solution) to eliminate some horizontal lines across the front crotch area.

As the waistband sits quite high it is a tad tight and I think I would grade the waist up to a 12 and adjust from there or perhaps if I fit the waistband as per instructions (!) I can stick with the size 10.

I also hemmed this just below ankle length so that I can wear them with flats however they look really good with heels and look very 1950s to me.

I am really pleased with how these turned out and would make them again with the changes mentioned – especially as I know I can squeeze them out of a metre of fabric!

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