Truffle Coat – Lara Sanner

Lara Sanner is probably best known for her children´s patterns, but Lara has launched two patterns for women, and they are both winners.

As soon as I saw the Truffle Coat pattern, I knew I wanted to make it up in chocolate brown corduroy and as luck would have it, I found this lovely fabric in Ditto Fabrics in Brighton last December. Corduroy is easy to sew, but there are a few important things to remember. Firstly, corduroy has a nap, so cut it in the same direction, most garments look best with the nap going down the body….stroke it and you will see which way the nap goes. Cut out the pieces singly, as your cord is like a stripe and needs to be exactly on grain. Lastly, use a piece of leftover corduroy, or failing that a towel, on your ironing board facing up, so that you don´t flatten that pile when you press.

The pattern is available in PDF format, but I used the paper version, which has thick paper for the pattern, a sturdy envelope and a nice little booklet, with very clear instructions…even my cat approved.

I spent an evening cutting and interfacing my coat. The pattern allocates a whole page to the position of interfacing, which is essential in coat making, making the whole process much easier. I especially liked the interfaced hems. My only change at this point was to use horsehair canvas in the back section.

As for sizing, I made the 40, which is nice on the shoulders, while the loose fit leaves plenty of room for layers underneath. As I´m short, I shortened the sleeves by 4cm, but left the length as drafted. In the end, I opted for the collar over the hood and reduced the collar by 3cm, which suits my small head and neck, but the drafted size would be great on most people.

The lining for the sleeves is normal jacket lining, but the body lining is “sarga” in this familar checked fabric for warmth, which works perfectly. Plus, I used the checked lining in the pockets to keep my hands warm.

The coat took me two relaxed afternoons to sew up and it was an enjoyable experience as the pattern is well drafted and the instructions are very thorough. The brass zip is put in very early in the construction meaning it is not cumbersome to insert, and I was delighted to learn how to bag the lining…it worked beautifully first time! I kept my zip exposed, although a front placket is included.

My favourite parts of the coat are the collar, which sits perfectly, and those lovely big pockets – room for everything, AND my hands. The raglan sleeves and the simple shape make this pattern perfect for statement fabrics, like brocade, jaquard, big scale prints or fake fur…and I´m definitely planning one of those for next year.

My new coat is just what I needed and I learnt some great new techniques on the way. Lara gave me the pattern to try out, but all of these opinions are entirely my own.