Chic Cape – Sew Over It

The Sew Over It Chic Cape was one of those patterns I bought as soon as it came out. I just HAD to have it. And then I thought…

Do I really need a cape?

Am I really going to WEAR a cape?

And then I remembered how much I lusted after winter capes when watching Great British Sewing Bee series 4 episode 2 – particularly Jamie’s (aka Male Devon Sewing).

So I might not need a cape. I might not be likely to WEAR a cape. But damn did I want to sew one.
When making my new sewing planner, inspired by Love to Sew podcast, I made lists of patterns I wanted to sew by season. The Chic Cape was tacked on the bottom of my Winter list until a sneaky after work trip to Exeter Fabric Centre with my sewing buddy Emma, when I found some beautiful Belgian wool for the bargain price of only £6.99 a metre! I choose a pretty polycotton lining with Emma’s help, to complement the fabric but also make the inside of the cape a feature. I’m all about the feature lining now. All of a sudden, the Chic Cape had been bumped up my sewing list.

I chose the Chic Cape as my project for a post-Christmas sewing day with Emma. Fuelled by coffee and bagels, I set to cutting it out before Emma arrived. As is becoming a theme with Sew Over It patterns, the fabric requirements were overestimated by over a metre. I had the same issue with my Penny dress, and I’m wondering if they overestimate in case you are using a one-dimensional print. I’d prefer they over than underestimated, but I now have a metre of wool I have no idea what to do with…suggestions welcome.

In making the Chic Cape I discovered what must be an issue for many sewists – how the bloody hell do your transfer markings to wool? I don’t know how to do tailors tacks, and I used every tool in my arsenal – carbon paper, fabric markers, tailors chalk…nothing was doing the job. I end up using tailors chalk, as this gave me the best results, but after I sewed the mirroring darts in the back they did not line up AT ALL. So I unpicked and started again (and unpicking on wool, with well colour matched thread, is not the most fun). I got there, but would really like some tips of the best way to transfer markings to wool.

You’re all going to say tailor’s tacks, aren’t you.

Anyway I made another error that resulted in traumatic unpicking – I attached the collar the wrong way. Purely my own error, as I was rushing on the morning on New Year’s Eve to get my Chic Cape finished – now I was making it, I desperately wanted to wear it immediately.

My thoughts on the pattern? As usual, I like Sew Over It patterns. They’re my style, and they are very well written and easy to follow. I got confused a few times but I put that down to rushing and/or not concentrating. I was a little irked that the notions listed press studs, which I dutifully bought, but when it came to sewing them on I realised they meant snap fastenings (as least that’s what they’re called down my way). Not a huge issue, but it did result in a mad dash to my local garden centre (the nearest place that sells haberdashery, obviously).

As hinted above, I was very proud at how well I had matched my thread colour. I bought four reels of moon thread so that I could overlock and realised once I started that, of course, the Chic Cape is fully lined and overlocking would be redundant. So away the overlocker went. However if I make the Chic Cape again I will overlock the armhole edges, as little strands of wool have started to poke out. I’ve fixed it by doing some very tight hand sewing, but a shortcut next time wouldn’t go amis.

One further note about the thread – this is a post about the Chic Cape and not thread, honest. This is the second time I have used moon threads, and the first time I’ve had snapping problems. Only whilst hand sewing, but I probably won’t use them again as it makes me nervous about the strength of the seams.

I mentioned that I was concerned I wouldn’t wear a cape much, as it is not an entirely practical coat. I immeditaely wore it on NYE, and again out for brunch with my sister-in-law a few days later. And I have to say – the more I wear it, the more I think I will. With jeans it is relaxed elegance, and I feel very vintage wearing it with my Coco and a pair of leather gloves. And, much to my surprise, it’s really warm and comfy!!
Photo by G.C.P Photography Photo by G.C.P Photography

But just a slight word of caution – take it off before you do up your seatbelt. Otherwise you end up with T-Rex arms.

On the whole I’m very happy with my cape – I’m not sure it’s one I’ll make again until I wear this one out, as it really is a statement piece. But as I said in my previous post I don’t really sew many basics and honestly, what’s not to love about a cape?