GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE 2023 – SEWING PATTERNS S9 EP4

GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE 2023 – SEWING PATTERNS S9 EP4
Kate Underdown

© The Great British Sewing Bee S9,4,Presenter Sara Pascoe and judges Esme Young and Patrick Grant,Love Productions

It’s the fourth episode of series 9!

In the fourth episode of The Great British Sewing Bee series 9, nine contestants are challenged with making a zero waste pair of trousers, transform tote bags into a garment and sew a made-to-measure out for a model sing second-hand crochet blankets. For episode four we have put our detective hats on to discover the sewing patterns from independent designers and commercial pattern houses used in Sewing Bee TV show. The patterns below are all matches or inspired by the designs used in the fourth episode of the Great British Sewing bee series 9. If you haven’t already seen our ultimate guide to the Sewing Bee  do take a look.

The theme was ‘Reduce Reuse Recycle’ and all nine contestants had to make three garments. The challenges included making a zero-waste pattern for a pair of trousers, upcycling tote bags into a wearable garment, and a made-to-measure outfit using secondhand crocheted blankets to fit a model. Take a look at our sewing pattern suggestions below, we’ve tried to find the exact patterns used but where we haven’t been able to  we have plenty of suggestions so that you can recreate these looks at home for your handmade wardrobe. Kate also talks through her favourite pattern options from the episode on YouTube in our special mid-week sewing bee vlog.

If you want to chat about the episode and the challenges then do join us each week in our Facebook group event.

Sewing Bee: Pattern Picks

Pattern Challenge 1: Zero-waste pattern for a pair of trousers

The first challenge of the fourth episode was to make a zero-waste pattern for a pair of trousers, which involved plenty of maths as no fabric can’t be wasted! The trousers had a drawstring waist with two pockets in the side seams and had to be sewn in three hours. First contestants must mark out the eleven sections on the fabric. Here is a zero waste trouser pattern you could try at home that’s very similar to the one featured on the Sewing Bee.

Birgitta Helmersson ZW block pant

This is a zero waste pattern which comes in 10 sizes. It has an attached waistband with inserted elastic and front pleats for a slightly tailored look. There is a feature seam line on the back legs. The side seams sit slightly to the front. There are concealed in-seam pockets at the front and patch pockets at the back. This pattern also comes with a hack option: a skirt with patch pockets and an elasticated waist.

Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘paperless’ meaning that no large pattern pieces are required. Instead of using full scale paper pattern pieces, you draw your pattern directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates.

With the exception of some small templates, this zero waste pattern has no pattern pieces. You will draw the pattern directly onto your fabric by following the step-by-step instructions in the pattern booklet and using small templates which you can print easily on your home printer – as you’ve seen the Bees do!

Sizing: XS – 6XL (approx. UK 6 – 30/32, based on our standardised size chart). Available in the shop: Yes, PDF.

 


Transformation Challenge 2: turn tote bags into a garment

In the upcycling challenge contestants had to upcycle tote bags into a wearable garment. Specific patterns weren’t used for these tasks as contestants had to create a garment from existing materials in a fixed time so it’s a bit tricky for us to make sewing pattern suggestions based on these design ideas.

 


Made-To-Measure Challenge 3: transforming second hand crochet blankets

In the last challenge of episode four, all the contestants had to transform second hand crochet blankets into a made-to-measure outfit. Here are our pattern picks for the contestants and where sewing patterns have been self drafted or hacked we have suggested an alternative.

Vicki’s Bohemian Dress

Features: Raglan sleeves, scallop trim and granny squares.

Pattern: Our Lady of Leisure’s Spritz Dress (hem frill and raglan sleeves – self drafted).

The Spritz is a flattering, relaxed dress perfect for hot summer days and vacations. This very simple design can be dressed up or down, or worn as a cover-up over swimwear. Oh so comfortable, the Spritz Dress will become your go-to weekend outfit in no time. The Spritz is designed to be worn belted, with either a matching length of cord or a commercially made belt.

Sizing: A – G (UK 6 – 18). Available in the shop: Yes, PDF or PDF + printed copy shop.

 

Lauren’s Culotte and Crop Top Set

Features: Elasticated waistband, box pleats and chevron hemline.

Patterns

Top: True Bias Zoey Tank Top

Zoey is a fitted knit tank top and dress. All views have a soft front V and low scooped back neckline. Armholes and necklines are finished with 5/8″ wide bands. Views A and B are tank tops. View A has a cropped length hitting around the natural waist and View B ends around the hipline. View C is a fit-and-flare tank dress with centre front and back seams for extra shaping and the hem ending a few inches above the ankle.

Sizing: US 0 – 18 or US 14 – 32 (approx. UK 6/8 – 18/20 or UK 16 – 34, based on our standardised size chart). Available in the shop: Paper, PDF and PDF + printed copy shop.

Trousers: Helen’s Closet Winslow Culottes

The Winslow Culottes are wide-legged pants designed for ultimate comfort and style. This pattern can be made at any length, from shorts to full-length pants! The design features inseam pockets, an invisible zipper, a waistband, and inverted box pleats. Make midi-length culottes in Tencel twill for a chic, modern look, shorts in cotton lawn for active adventures, or pants in rayon challis for luxurious weekend wear.

Sizing: 0 – 34 (approx. UK 6 – 34, based on our standardised size chart). Available in the shop: PDF or PDF + printed copy shop.

 

Fauve’s Swinging 60s dress

Features: Big collar, flowering fastenings and chevron hem.

Pattern: Simple Sew Nancy Dress. 

Available in the shop: Unfortunately not.

 

Tony W’s Stripes and chevron two piece

Features: Chevrons and horizontal stripes.

Pattern: A similar pattern would be Burda 6608 (where you could crop the jacket and shorten the grown on sleeves of the dress). Slimline jersey dress with short integral sleeves with a slightly fitted back. The long jacket with a V-neck is the perfect companion for cooler weather. Both are quick and easy to sew.

Sizing: A (10-12-14-16-18-20-22-24), which is approx. UK sizes A (8 – 20/22) based on our standardised size chartAvailable in the shop: Yes, paper pattern.

 

Matthew’s Nan’s A-line dress. 

Features: A-line skirt and large bow.

Pattern: Vintage 1950s Woman’s Realm Special Pattern L41. 

Available in the shop: Unfortunately not.

 

Mia’s Box Jacket and Mini Skirt. 

Features: Toggles, Collar and symmetrical granny squares.

Pattern: Pinch Patterns Ollie Jacket and Georgie Skirt. 

Available in the shop: Unfortunately not.

 

Asmaa’s Flower Power Coat

Features: Calf length and flower embellishments.

Pattern: We aren’t sure about this one, please let us know if you have any ideas!

 

Lizzie’s Striped Dress and Hooded Bomber

Features: Box pleats and hooded cropped bomber.

Pattern: We aren’t sure about this one, please let us know if you have any ideas!

 

Tony R’s Festival Two Piece. 

Features: Puff sleeves and elasticated waist trousers.

Pattern

Top: A similar top would be the French Poetry Polaris Top. Polaris is an off-the-shoulder peasant top with gathers on the neckline and arms. Wear it all summer long to showcase your shoulder line! The gathers are made using elastic casings, and an optional bow can be added on the front. Inspired by a vintage cut from the 1940s, it features an underarm gusset. Choose a crisp shirting or soft crepe to play with different textures and volumes!

Sizing: 2 – 16 (approx. UK 6 – 16). Please check the size chart. This top is very loose-fitting. Choose your size as per the measurements if you want a lot of gathers, or size down if you want your top to be closer to your body. Size down if the drape of your fabric is quite stiff or puffy. Available in the shop: Yes, PDF or PDF + printed copy shop.

Trousers: A similar pair of trousers would be the Cashmerette Calder Trousers. Elevate your look with the Calder Trousers and Shorts! These wide-legged woven trousers feature a flat front, elasticated back waistband, faced in-seam pockets, and three length options: mid-calf, full, and shorts. Choose between a dartless apple fit and a darted back pear fit for ideal bum shaping. The Calder is sure to have you loving wearing pants again!

Sizing: US 12 – 32 (approx. UK 14 – 34) with apple and pear pelvis fits. Available in the shop: Yes, paper.

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